"Peck at Pipeline" clip from Goomer.com
NW WIND 10 TO 15 KT.
WIND WAVES 2 FT.
NW SWELL 5 FT AT 7 SECONDS.
TONIGHT NW WIND 10 TO 15 KT.
WIND WAVES 2 FT.
NW SWELL 5 FT AT 7 SECONDS.
John Peck could be described as many things...eccentric, spiritual, cosmic...but without a doubt, he is a guru in the surfing-spirituality connection. Through the years he has developed unique beliefs, some far out...some remarkably insightful. The universe, he observes, is full of waves – waves of electro-magnetic energy that travel through space perpetually, often transforming, but never being destroyed... shaping and creating everything in existence. These energy waves reveal themselves in myriad forms – sound waves, sub-atomic waves, solar waves and, thankfully for us...floating upon the sea's liquid surface...ocean waves. The waves are different and the same, dual in nature, yet unified – the energy of the universe courses through multi-dimensional time and space, presenting to our consciousness as different manifestations along the path.
As surfers we’re clearly much more than lucky, earthly travellers, but are people that have discovered a dynamic method of personally and individually tapping into one of these wave forms that exist in this universe. What other beings can glide upon repeating pulses of energy and ride them, however temporarily or intermittently, as long and as often as they can?
No one that comes to mind. Perhaps that is why people, not just surfers, everywhere find the sea, and the act of surfing, compelling to watch, and why we return over and over again...sometimes on a daily basis...sometimes after a separation much longer...to seek that energy source and feel beneath our bodies and within our very being that power and the stoke.
Adapted, excerpted, excised, stolen and altered from the Surfer's Path, Issue 41...
WIND 15 TO 20 KT...EASING TO 10 TO 15 KT IN THE AFTERNOON.
WIND WAVES 3 FT.
NW SWELL 7 FT AT 8 SECONDS NORTH AND 8 FT AT 9 SECONDS SOUTH.
TONIGHT N WIND 10 TO 15 KT.
WIND WAVES 3 FT.
NW SWELL 6 FT AT 9 SECONDS.
Surfed this cove...
Solo...
Lotsa rocks...
Angry bellowing sea lions...
Shadows and movement below...
Can't really see your feet...
Swirling currents...
Head high set waves...
Tough to stay in position...
Caught inside, duck dive central...
Brutal hangover...
Concern for survival...
All equalled short session...
Read this recent report afterwards...makes you wonder...
...North Coast was firing prior to the on-shores beating it down. Nice wedges neck to head high. Short lived session due to being knocked off my board by something. Something big enough to knock me off my board. Not sure what it was. I didn't see it and the water had been super murky. I was out all alone too so couldn't ask anybody else. Only minor scrapes on my board. Freaked me out though.~rich
Here's something about Jay Adams: Jay was not the greatest pool skater, nor was he the greatest bank skater, or the greatest slalom skater or the greatest freestyler. The fact is, Jay Adams' contribution to skateboarding defies description or category. Jay Adams is probably not the greatest skater of all time, but I can say without fear of being wrong that he is clearly the archetype of modern-day skateboarding. Archetype defined means an original pattern or model, a prototype. Prototype defined means the first thing or being of its kind. He's the real thing, an original seed, the original virus that infected all of us. He was beyond comparison. To this day I haven't witnessed any skater more vital, more dynamic, more fun to watch, more unpredictable, and more spontaneous in his approach than Jay. There are not enough superlatives to describe him.~Stacy Peralta...from Thrasher Magazine
In contests, Jay was simply the most exciting skater to watch. He never skated the same run the same way twice. His routines were wickedly random yet exceedingly tight and beautiful to watch: he even invented tricks during his runs. I've never seen any skater destroy convention and expectation better. Watching him skate was something new every second: he was "skate and destroy" personified.
I believe this photo of Jay is the most stunning and strikingly clear representation, of any photo ever taken, of modern skateboarding. It contains all the elements that make up what modern-day skateboarding has become: awesome aggression and style, power and fury, wild abandon, destruction of all fear, untamed individualism, and a free-spirited determination to tear, shred, and rip relentlessly.
Jay Adams may not have been the world's best skater, but he was the man, the real deal, the original, the first. He is the archetype of our shared heritage.
N WIND 20 TO 25 KT.
WIND WAVES 5 FT.
NW SWELL 9 FT AT 8 SECONDS.
TONIGHT N WIND 20 TO 25 KT.
WIND WAVES 6 FT.
NW SWELL 10 FT AT 8 SECONDS.
Looks kinda windswept...but hoping to get a few of these in over the next days...
~photo by Michael Kew...via Niceness
NW WIND 15 TO 20 KT.
WIND WAVES 4 FT.
W SWELL 4 FT AT 8 SECONDS.
TONIGHT NW WIND 15 TO 20 KT.
WIND WAVES 4 FT... SUBSIDING TO 2 FT AFTER MIDNIGHT.
W SWELL 5 FT AT 8 SECONDS.
An unlikely reform...but how perfect and how clean...
Gone for a few days camping in the Old Cascades...ooops!
Naming spots...very bad!
N WIND 15 KT...RISING TO 20 TO 25 KT IN THE AFTERNOON.
WIND WAVES 3 FT...BUILDING TO 5 FT IN THE AFTERNOON.
W SWELL 5 FT AT 9 SECONDS.
TONIGHT N WIND 20 TO 25 KT...EASING TO 15 TO 20 KT AFTER MIDNIGHT.
WIND WAVES 5 FT.
W SWELL 6 FT AT 9 SECONDS.
Usually howling winds blow down any waves that approach this beach...I have caught it on a couple occassions where it was glassy and clean...it was also very small...
N WIND 15 TO 20 KT.
WIND WAVES 4 FT.
W SWELL 6 FT AT 9 SECONDS.
TONIGHT N WIND 15 TO 20 KT...EASING TO 10 TO 15 KT AFTER MIDNIGHT.
WIND WAVES 4 FT...SUBSIDING TO 2 FT AFTER MIDNIGHT.
W SWELL 5 FT AT 9 SECONDS.
Another of surfing's iconic images...Mickey Munoz' Quasimodo...
V5: ...Is that an image that haunts you? What is the story behind that image?
Mickey Munoz: I was doing the right thing at the right time and it was pure luck. Actually, I was on my way back from Rincon and we would surf Sacres, which by the way was really incredible. The guys were taking off way beyond the rock, very good surf. John Severson was on his way back from Rincon, saw us out there and set up his camera and took some photos of us. I just happened to do that thing at a shore break. In those days when you checked the film out, they had an older movie camera, which you reeled the film through a little screen. We then looked at the footage and we stopped at that image, going back and forth between that image and two or three frames and then froze it. So we made some eight by ten black
and whites off the color 60-millimeter film. For some reason it was graphically interesting and I credit John with the artistic eye to freeze that frame and it has kind of lived on. I use it for my surfboard and snowboard logo now.
v5: Was that a conscious pose or where you joking around when the picture taken?
MM: Well, we were riding a sort of mechanical wave, such as you get in Malibu. A perfect point break, it was in the days when were equating surfing to bull fighting. (laughs) Coming as close to the horns as possible without getting gored, basically getting into the tube and making the wave. So we adapted some of the bull fight poses such as the El telefono and the espontaneo, which was when you spontaneously jumped into the arena and pulled out a muleta and made some
passes until either the bull gored you or they took you to jail. (laughs) So the espontaneo was a clue to do anything that came into your mind and you were always putting each other on. There was a bit of humor and fun in doing these various poses in the most critical part of the wave. I don’t know, that just sort of happened, it was an espontaneo! (laughs)
NW WIND 15 TO 20 KT.
A FEW GUSTS TO 25 KT S OF CAPE FALCON IN THE AFTERNOON.
WIND WAVES 2 FT...BUILDING TO 4 FT IN THE AFTERNOON.
W SWELL 8 FT AT 10 SECONDS.
TONIGHT N WIND 15 TO 20 KT.
A FEW GUSTS TO 25 KT S OF CAPE FALCON IN THE EVENING.
WIND WAVES 4 FT...SUBSIDING TO 2 FT AFTER MIDNIGHT.
W SWELL 7 FT AT 9 SECONDS.
Some thoughts from Gills on surf, gear and stoke:
I have what I need.
I surf my whole quiver.
I'm not [in] want of more boards.
If I am, I buy it.
I'm not rich, but I have a fun fund for surf stuff that I donate to religiously.
I think this gets more to the question of gearheads vs. [not gearheads].
I'm not a gearhead.
I wear stuff until it falls off my body.
I drive cars until they die.
I ride boards until they snap.
...about this valley kook stuff that's been popping up of late.
I agree that the Stewart Longboarder at XX four times a summer isn't cool.
But for those of us who get up at 4:00am to drive to the beach,
...surf for three hours and be back to work by 10:00am don't do it by choice.
And then because we're green,
...we bicycle commute to compensate for the waste of gas.
And what impedes our surfing is a little gut by genetic roullette
...so we run 15 miles a week and swim 5
...so we can be better surfers
...[this] means we don't deserve this "your a valley kook" shit.
I get pissed that people assume
...the surfer next to them doesn't know anything
...if they're not as good as the next guy.
To me, surfing isn't about being as good as the next [guy]
...it's about me and the ocean and my love for the practice of its art.
I get stoked watching 'HD' kill it on his 7'2 when he doesn't know anyone is watching.
I get stoked when I paddle next to Sonny and watch how he reads waves
...and I think, "school is in session", pay attention.
I get stoked having a chat with Gaz about "how good it is"
...even after he watched me get my @ss handed to me.
I guarantee I live, breathe and write surfing.
And I know others do to.
So make sure you're calling a spade a spade...
NW WIND 15 KT.
WIND WAVES 4 FT...SUBSIDING TO 2 FT IN THE AFTERNOON.
W SWELL 9 FT AT 12 SECONDS.
TONIGHT NW WIND 15 KT.
WIND WAVES 4 FT.
W SWELL 8 FT AT 11 SECONDS.
Can't speak for the state of the surf...but the end of the day looks like it came together pretty nicely...
W WIND 10 KT...BECOMING N IN THE AFTERNOON.
WIND WAVES 1 FOOT.
W SWELL 10 FT AT 10 SECONDS.
TONIGHT N WIND 15 KT.
WIND WAVES 3 FT.
W SWELL 10 FT AT 10 SECONDS IN THE EARLY EVENING
...SUBSIDING TO 9 FT AT 10 SECONDS.
Serendipitous...
10 mph winds...
10 foot swell...
10 second period...
The planets must be in alignment...
I recommend hiking in somewhere for 10 miles...
Surfing a board that weighs 10 pounds...
Catching waves in multiples of 10...
Log a 10 second tube, good luck...
If on an LB, hanging 10...
It's summer, so surf until 10pm...
After surf...
Have about 10 beers...
Half pints if you have to...
Exagerate your wave count and quality by about 10...
Those beers should help with that and this...
Try to last longer than 10...
If you know what I mean.
W WIND 10 TO 15 KT.
WIND WAVES 2 FT.
W SWELL 7 FT AT 11 SECONDS.
TONIGHT W WIND 15 KT...EASING TO 10 KT AFTER MIDNIGHT.
WIND WAVES 2 FT.
W SWELL 8 FT AT 10 SECONDS.
Many fish riders out there?
Work day today...checked a couple reef setups on the north central coast that looked promising...naturally, there was noone out...rocks, water, surfboard, dings, injuries...hook me up!
S WIND 10 TO 15 KT.
WIND WAVES 2 FT.
W SWELL 6 FT AT 13 SECONDS.
TONIGHT SW WIND 15 KT...BECOMING S AFTER MIDNIGHT.
WIND WAVES 3 FT.
W SWELL 7 FT AT 11 SECONDS.
Something about the speed...
Something about the slide...
Something about the feel...
Something about the glide...
Something about the sea...
It's more than just the ride.
S WIND 15 TO 20 KT WITH LOCAL GUSTS TO 25 KT.
WIND WAVES 4 FT.
W SWELL 5 FT AT 14 SECONDS.
TONIGHT S WIND 15 KT.
WIND WAVES 2 FT.
W SWELL 5 FT AT 13 SECONDS.
The above shot is the closest approximation I could find to yesterday's location and conditions...
Checked a few spots as I made my way north. It was windy and out of the south which pretty much blew everything to crap. Checked a couple spots protected by headlands, one looked promising but very rocky, sketchy and solo for sure. I might have surfed it 10 years ago by myself, but now I am older and wiser...and fatter! Still, watched it for about 20 minutes, hoping for someone to show up to prod into paddling out with...yeah, right...Oregon coast, off the highway, not a commonly surfed break...I probably could have waited 20 hours before someone came by to surf it with.
Settled for the south end of a well-known protected cove. The rip was working and there were occassional rights that deposited you where you wanted to be. Caught lots of big, fat, soft waves in the couple hours I was out. South winds look to be blowing for a bit, which is not good...
S WIND 10 TO 15 KT.
WIND WAVES 2 FT.
W SWELL 5 FT AT 10 SECONDS.
TONIGHT S WIND 10 TO 15 KT.
WIND WAVES 2 FT.
W SWELL 5 FT AT 9 SECONDS.
The standing Island pullout involves a sharp nose-weighted turn directly into the wave face, possibly accompanied by a rail-grab using the outside arm. Done right, this move results in you punching through the face, and popping out the back while the wave moves away.
~excerpt from Surfline...
SW WIND 5 TO 10 KT...SLOWLY BACKING TO S THIS AFTERNOON.
WIND WAVES 1 FOOT.
W SWELL 4 FT AT 9 SECONDS.
TONIGHT S WIND 15 KT.
WIND WAVES 2 FT.
W SWELL 5 FT AT 9 SECONDS.
I was at dinner with a friend last night and we talked about the sailing accident that resulted in the death of a local teen. We spoke of the fact that the boy was knocked overboard by a wave, even though seas were only running about 5 feet. Apparently he wasn't tethered and they got hit by a double up that washed him off the boat.
Then at home later I received an e-mail from another friend informing me of the memorial service for his brother in law who died in a sailing accident off the California coast.
It's a small world. And one that just got a little smaller...
Here's the Oregonian story...
A Lincoln High School student who graduated last week died Tuesday in a sailing accident in the Pacific Ocean 35 miles west of San Francisco after a wave knocked him overboard.
The U.S. Coast Guard said Andrew Brinkley was pronounced dead at a Bay Area hospital Tuesday afternoon, apparently from hypothermia, after a wave knocked him overboard from his father's newly acquired sailboat.
The 29-foot boat called "Fat Chance" was about 35 miles off the California coastline near Point Reyes when the accident occured, said Lt. John Fu of the San Francisco-based U.S. Coast Guard.
Brinkley had set out on a sailing trip with his father, two other 2006 Lincoln graduates and Paddy Tillett, another parent, as part of a graduation trip.
The group had driven from Portland to San Francisco early Saturday to pick up a boat that Brinkley's father, Kenneth D. Brinkley, had recently acquired. They set sail on Saturday afternoon and were traveling north to bring the boat to Portland.
Shortly before 7:30 a.m. Tuesday, a wave hit the boat, sending Andrew Brinkley overboard. He was not tethered to a safety line but was wearing a life jacket at the time of the accident.
Fu said it was not known whether the other boaters were wearing life jackets.
Coast Guard officials received a mayday call from the boat and told emergency dispatchers that they couldn't rescue Andrew Brinkley because the engine had failed.
The Coast Guard launched an 87-foot cutter from the Humboldt Bay station; two helicopters from Air Station San Francisco; three 47-foot patrol boats from Station Bodega Bay; and a C-130 rescue airplane from Air Station Sacramento to help in the search.
Fu said the boat's radio also malfunctioned, further hampering the search for Brinkley. He said the crew of the Fat Chance activated the vessel's emergency position-indicating radio beacon to alert the Coast Guard of its position.
About 9:08 a.m., one of the helicopter crews spotted the sailboat approximately 35 miles west of Point Reyes. The Coast Guard then requested assistance from nearby vessels and a tanker, the Valdivostok, responded to help with radio calls.
The helicopter crew spotted Andy Brinkley about three miles northwest of the Fat Chance at 12:23 p.m. Tuesday and hoisted him out of the water. Crew members performed CPR, but he was pronounced dead at the hospital.
Tillett piloted the boat back to shore with the other two boys on board.
NW WIND 15 KT.
WIND WAVES 2 FT.
W SWELL 4 FT AT 9 SECONDS.
TONIGHT NW WIND 15 KT...EASING TO 5 TO 10 KT AFTER MIDNIGHT.
WIND WAVES 2 FT.
W SWELL 4 FT AT 9 SECONDS.
Hoping to scratch into a few this week...swell is supposed to build a bit early in the week...staying around 5 to 6 feet
NW WIND 10 KT.
WIND WAVES 2 FT.
NW SWELL 3 FT AT 8 SECONDS.
TONIGHT NW WIND 10 TO 15 KT.
WIND WAVES 2 FT.
NW SWELL 4 FT AT 10 SECONDS...SHIFTING TO THE W AFTER MIDNIGHT.
Out of the water for over a week.
Ready to rehydrate...
SE WIND 20 TO 25 KT...VEERING TO SW...BECOMING S 15 KT IN THE AFTERNOON.
WIND WAVES 5 FT...SUBSIDING TO 2 FT IN THE AFTERNOON.
SW SWELL 4 FT AT 8 SECONDS BECOMING 5 FT AT 14 SECONDS THIS AFTERNOON.
TONIGHT S WIND 10 TO 15 KT...BECOMING SW 5 TO 10 KT AFTER MIDNIGHT.
WIND WAVES 2 FT.
SW SWELL 5 FT AT 15 SECONDS.
This is a shot of the old Columbia Bar Light Boat being transported overland...
Much like myself...I am out of the water and on the road for the next week...no surf in my future...blog also in drydock until then
S WIND 5 TO 10 KT...BECOMING N 10 KT THIS AFTERNOON.
WIND WAVES 1 FT.
SW SWELL 5 FT AT 8 SECONDS.
TONIGHT NE WIND 10 TO 15 KT...BECOMING SE 15 TO 25 KT AFTER MIDNIGHT.
WIND WAVES 2 FT...BUILDING TO 5 FT AFTER MIDNIGHT.
SW SWELL 5 FT AT 10 SECONDS.
Looks like there could be some fun ones out there today.
SW WIND 15 TO 20 KT EASING TO 10 KT IN THE AFTERNOON.
WIND WAVES 3 FT...SUBSIDING TO 2 FT IN THE AFTERNOON.
SW SWELL 6 FT AT 7 SECONDS.
TONIGHT SW WIND 10 KT...BACKING TO S AFTER MIDNIGHT.
WIND WAVES 2 FT.
SW SWELL 5 FT AT 8 SECONDS.
Aaberg, Kemp:
Lean, blond, smooth-surfing regularfooter from Santa Barbara, California; a Gidget-era Malibu icon and costar of filmmaker Bruce Brown's 1958 surf movie, Slippery When Wet. Aaberg was born (1940) in Peoria, Illinois, spent his early childhood in Boston, Massachusetts, and moved with his family in 1948 to Pacific Palisades, in west Los Angeles. Eight years later he began surfing, at Malibu, first using a right-foot-forward goofyfoot stance, then switching to a left-foot-leading regularfoot stance so as to be facing the long right-breaking Malibu waves. Although Aaberg had been surfing for less than three years when he was picked to go to Hawaii with Brown to film Slippery When Wet, he was already regarded as one of California's premier surf stylists. A black-and-white photo of him back-arching in perfect trim at Rincon appeared in the second issue of Surfer in 1961; a duotone version of the shot became the magazine's first logo later that year, and was reprinted on the magazine's 25th anniversary issue cover in 1985. The Surfer's Journal later described the Aaberg back-arch shot as "one of the most instantly identifiable surf images of all time, and an enduring statement about the joy of surfing." Australian Peter Townend, the 1976 world champion, reintroduced Aaberg's move in the mid-'70s as the soul arch. Congenial and easygoing, Aaberg could nonetheless be obsessive: he avoided surf competition, but won the grueling 32-mile Catalina-to-Manhattan Pier paddleboard race in 1961; he studied flamenco guitar in Spain for six months in 1972; he placed highly in triathlons in the mid-'80s.
Aaberg wrote articles for Surfer, Surf Guide, and H2O magazines, and his monthly "Surf Scrolls" column appeared in the Santa Barbara News Press from 1989 to 1992. He appeared in a number of '60s surf movies, including Surfing Hollow Days (1962) and A Cool Wave of Color (1964). The Jack Barlow character in Warner Brothers' 1978 surf movie Big Wednesday was loosely based on Aaberg; the Big Wednesday screenplay was cowritten by Denny Aaberg, Kemp's younger brother. Aaberg received a B.A. in social sciences from University of California, Santa Barbara, in 1966; in 1991 he was nominated to the International Surfing Hall of Fame. Aaberg is married and has no children.
~Matt Warshaw...Encyclopedia of Surfing
S WIND 10 TO 15 KT...RISING TO 15 TO 20 KT WITH GUSTS TO 25 KT IN THE AFTERNOON. WIND WAVES 2 FT...BUILDING TO 4 FT IN THE AFTERNOON.
SW SWELL 4 FT AT 7 SECONDS.
TONIGHT S WIND 20 TO 25 KT...EASING TO 15 TO 20 KT AFTER MIDNIGHT. WIND WAVES 5 FT. SW SWELL 6 FT AT 7 SECONDS.
Coming hard off the bottom...
Wave closing out...
Every drop of water in place...
Exterior of cylinder...
Follow the rifling lines...
Controlled explosion of froth...
