NE WIND 15 TO 20 KT WITH GUSTS TO 25 KT.
EASING TO 10 TO 15 KT EARLY EVENING.
WIND WAVES 4 FT.
NW SWELL 5 FT AT 8 SECONDS.
DROPPING TO W SWELL 4 FT AT 10 SECONDS.
The Bandage Man
There is a phantom figure wrapped in bandages that haunts a stretch of Highway 101 near Cannon Beach. The Bandage Man, smells of rotting flesh and jumps onto vehicles passing on a road outside of town. He is purported to have broken windows and left behind bits of bloody foul-smelling bandages. He is sometimes said to eat dogs and to have murdered several people. Legend has it that he is the ghost of a dead logger cut to pieces in a sawmill accident or an escaped criminal who had been shot many times.
Some abridged accounts:
"An old bypassed section of 101 was, for many years ,was known as "Bandage Man Road". It was a popular place for local kids to go park and makeout. One night, two local kids were parked on the dark lonely road in an old chevy pickup. Suddenly, they felt the truck lean. They turned to encounter a bandaged figure that started to beat on the glass an cab of the truck. The kid started the truck and tore out of there with his girlfriend screaming in terror as the bandage man continued his pounding. Once they made it into Cannon Beach, the bandaged figure was no where to be seen."
"...saw this with a group of freinds, about two years ago. We were traveling home to Portland from the beach. We go to the beach in middle of the night, so it was about 3 in the morning when we saw "The Bandage Man". We saw a man running (in a strange fashion) down the highway with strips of white cloth hanging from his body. We had no idea what we saw, and we were freaked out! We didn't know if it was a ghost, or s
NE WIND 10 TO 15 KT...RISING TO 15 TO 25 KT IN THE AFTERNOON.
WIND WAVES 4 FT.
NW SWELL 9 TO 10 FT AT 10 SECONDS EARLY...DROPPING TO 8 FT AT 10 SECONDS.
SUBSIDING TO 5 FT AT 9 SECONDS AFTER MIDNIGHT.
Summer's over and there aren't nearly as many cars in the lots at popular breaks these days. Some things never change though, as evidenced by all the cars parked at this popular Oregon coast destination.
Waves were fun this morning. Thought the swell would have a bit more push to it, but the rights were still pretty racy down the line before inner bar detonation. Overrode my own common sense and went left on a close out, took my board to the chin. Nothing too serious, I thought. However, now that the icy cold has worn off, I have a nice little bump and a very sore jaw.
Water was cold today, air too. Once I got out, I couldn't even make a fist because my hands were so swollen from the cold. Time to break out the gloves, I think.
NW WIND 25 TO 30 KT.SWINGING TO N & EASING TO 15 KT AFTER MIDNIGHT.
WIND WAVES 6 FT...SUBSIDING TO 2 FT AFTER MIDNIGHT.
W SWELL 10 TO 11 FT AT 9 SECONDS...SUBSIDING TO 8 FT AFTER MIDNIGHT.
This shot was taken by an Anon poster on the OSP of a popular north coast spot.
I may have to pay a visit this winter...it's been awhile...
NW WIND 5 TO 10 KT...BACKING TO W IN THE AFTERNOON.
WIND WAVES 1 FOOT.
W SWELL 7 FT AT 11 SECONDS.
Solar Confusion...
In Late Afternoon...
Sun Blind...
Squinting...
And Shading...
Looking For Lines...
From The Distance...
Walking On Water...
A Glider Approaches...
Only To Pass By...
We Paddle Out...
On Glimmering Sheets...
Of Reflection.
S WIND 5 TO 10 KT WITH GUSTS TO 15 KT... BECOMING SW 10 TO 15 KT.
WIND WAVES 2 FT.
NW SWELL 10 FT AT 11 SECONDS.
An early example of surfii oregonium...
Notice the ineffective cold water protection...
The lack of refinement in the skegless surfboard...
Square tail, narrow hips, no rocker, splinters...
These early boards pearled and slid out easily...
But there were no crowds!
SW WIND 5 TO 10 KT...RISING TO 10 TO 15 KT.
WIND WAVES 2 FT.
NW SWELL 10 FT AT 11 SECONDS.
This spot is smack dab in the middle of the Oregon coast...
I have never, ever seen anyone surf this spot...
I've surfed it only 2 times in 10+ years...
And only on a long board on a 3 foot swell...
These waves are solid head and a half over...
The shoreline is sketchy, jagged and rocky...
If you blow the takeoff you'd likely get hurt...
In other words...classic "Surf in Oregon".
NW WIND 10 TO 15 KT...BACKING TO SW WITH GUSTS TO 20 KT IN THE AFTERNOON.
WIND WAVES 2 FT.
NW SWELL 19 FT AT 14 SECONDS...SUBSIDING TO 13 FT AT 13 SECONDS.
Long day...Started the morning at a south coast cape and worked my way north looking for surf that was surfable...
Saw lots of waves...but few that were accessible or doable...mostly huge beasts and rocky coves...not a good combination...
I saw some surfables early...and a few late...but little in between...and in the end, having driven from approximately Bandon to Oceanside...I can honestly say...there are no surfers in Oregon...
At least from what I saw.
NW WIND 25 KT...EASING TO 10 TO 15 KT LATE.
WIND WAVES 6 FT...SUBSIDING TO 3 FEET.
NW SWELL 21 FT AT 16 SECONDS.
SUBSIDING TO 17 FT AT 14 SECONDS AFTER MIDNIGHT.
Point Dume, that is...circa 1951.
Not Oregon, and probably alot cleaner than it will be today or tomorrow.
I'm still gonna go have a look see.
N WIND 10 TO 15 KT WITH GUSTS TO 20 KT.
WIND WAVES 3 FT.
W SWELL 10 FT AT 10 SECONDS.
DROPPING TO NW 8 FT AT 10 SECONDS.
Tuesday...BUILDING TO 14 FT AT 10 SECONDS IN THE AFTERNOON.
Wednesday...MORE OF THE SAME...
I'll be surfing the south central coast on Wednesday, coming up from Southern Oregon.
Looks like it could be good...or well beyond the tolerance of my body to survive big surf. I feel pretty good about finding surf though...think I'll pack a gun.
NE WIND 10 KT...BECOMING N 15 TO 25 KT IN THE AFTERNOON.
WIND WAVES 1 FT...BUILDING TO 5 FT IN THE AFTERNOON.
NW SWELL 6 TO 7 FT AT 14 SECONDS.
BUILDING TO NW 8 FT AT 12 SECONDS.
Not all shipwrecks of the Oregon coast are impressive 3 masted schooners...
Pictured is the 26-foot salmon trawler "Florence K." where it washed ashore August 1962 at Agate Beach, near Newport, Oregon. It had overturned in heavy seas and the two occupants made it to shore safely. The 52-foot Coast Guard vessel sent out to tow the trawler in became grounded and required the assistance of two other Coast Guard vessels.
Kind of brings to mind another famous shipwreck...
NE WIND 10 TO 15 KT...BECOMING N 20 TO 25 KT.
WIND WAVES 5 FT.
NW SWELL 8 FT AT 14 SECONDS.
DROPPING TO NW 7 FT AT 12 SECONDS.
The paddle out yesterday didn't look too bad...
As long as you timed it right...
The lineup was pretty far outside...
And most outside waves could be dealt with...
But the clean up sets were substantial...
And came relentlessly in the double digits...
All three of the surfers in the picture...
Were waiting outside for a set wave...
Only to be confounded by a wave that broke...
Hundreds of yards beyond the take off zone...
And followed by an equally ubfriendly train...
Driving them into the shallows by the end...
A wave previous to the drubbing depicted above...
N WIND 10 TO 15.
WIND WAVES 2 FT.
NW SWELL 10 TO 12 FT AT 16 SECONDS.
A longer period would have helped today...
Some good looking waves rolling through...
Interspersed with long waits between sets...
And sets that would clean up the line up...
Saw far more missed waves and duckdives...
Than I did down the line slides...
Those waves that were caught...
Usually terminated in a massive close out...
The wind was on it by afternoon...
Looking lumpy and sparkly in the sun...
Checked a seldom ridden big wave spot...
Death defying rights closing out across the bay...
W WIND 15 KT WITH SW WIND 15 TO 25 KT S OF TILLAMOOK THIS MORNING.
VEERING TO NW 15 KT IN THE AFTERNOON.
WIND WAVES 4 FT.
W SWELL 9 TO 10 FT AT 13 SECONDS.
The winter rains have started...
I can hardly wait for some sessions...
Sharing the lineup with logs...
Nothing is quite as exhilirating...
As seeing a 2+ ton chunk of wood...
Floating in the lip of a wave...
W WIND 10 KT...BECOMING SW 10 TO 15 KT THIS AFTERNOON.
WIND WAVES 3 FT.
NW SWELL 5 FT AT 9 SECONDS.
BUILDING TO 8 FT AT 10 SECONDS AFTER MIDNIGHT.
Don't people have jobs?
Frequent poster from the OSP, Fossilgrom reports:
Frickin' rediculous last night... Started out typical enough - a few guys out for the first hour, but then the horde decended. They just kept filing down the path. By far the most people I have seen out at night - all fighting for crap surf - tumbling around in the white water - madcap group paddles for crumbly bumppy shite in the half dark - blatant disregard for any rule of law, and me in the middle of it all surfing blind and leashless with a 10ft, 30lb missle. The fact that no blood was inadvertantly spilled was sheer luck. Freak occurence? Or a horrifying view into the future of Oregon surfing?
NW WIND 5 TO 10 KT.
WIND WAVES 1 FOOT.
NW SWELL 8 FT AT 9 SECONDS.
Today the surf was smooth but bumpy...
Some big drops followed by nowhere to go...
Paddled into several that backed off...
Until they closed out on the inner bar...
While it was better than nothing...
It was only by a very close margin...
I had a far more enjoyable time...
Drinking beer on the beach in the sun...
Additionally, on my first wave...
I got bounced hard off the bottom...
And my left ear filled with water...
Which I still cannot clear...
NW WIND 15 TO 20 KT...EASING TO 10 TO 15 KT.
WIND WAVES 4 FT...SUBSIDING TO 2 FT IN THE AFTERNOON.
W SWELL 10 FT AT 10 SECONDS.
There's always tomorrow...
For dreams to come true...
5 knot winds out of the north...
A 10 foot swell dropping to 6...
Believe in your dreams...
Come what may...
What may come is not wind...
Wind waves of only a foot!
There's always tomorrow...
With so much to do...
(Work can wait if the surf's up)
And so little time in a day.
We all pretend the rainbow has an end...
And you'll be there my friend someday...
When the rain stops...
There could be a pot of gold...
There's always tomorrow...
For dreams to come true...
Tomorrow is not far away...
I know, dawn patrol or arvo?
We all pretend the rainbow has an end...
And you'll be there my friend someday...
We've gone over this before...
10 foot swell dropping to 6...
There's always tomorrow...
For dreams to come true...
Tomorrow is not far away...
And I'm on it.
SW WIND 20 TO 25 KT WITH GUSTS TO 30 KT.
BECOMING W 15 TO 20 KT IN THE AFTERNOON.
WIND WAVES 5 FT.
W SWELL 6 FT AT 12 SECONDS.
BUILDING TO W SWELL 7 FT AT 10 SECONDS.
Looking a little messy...
But things could improve later in the week.
Great significant wave height animation here...
NW WIND 5 TO 10 KT...BACKING TO W IN THE AFTERNOON.
WIND WAVES 1 FOOT.
W SWELL 4 FT AT 9 SECONDS.
BUILDING TO W SWELL 4 FT AT 13 SECONDS.
I know alot of surfers...
Some are good, some not so...
Some are nice, some not so...
Aside from a select few...
Almost all of them...
Can cop an attitude...
It's a 'tude that's reserved...
Not for civilians strolling by...
But for their fellow surfers...
N WIND 10 TO 15 KT WITH GUSTS TO 20 KT.
WIND WAVES 2 FT.
W SWELL 5 FT AT 11 SECONDS.
Gotta love days like the past few...
Checked a likely spot yesterday...
Only to find closeouts and froth...
Took a nap on the beach, hoping...
But the tide swing didn't help...
So opted for a less likely spot...
That was working so, so well...
Uncrowded, clean and glassy...
Just overhead and sparkling...
Glowing green and reeling...
Overhead waves seem less threatening...
When surfed under warm sunny skies...
But that same 8 foot walling face...
Becomes a heavy slate gray slab...
When the sky is dark and dense with rain...
N WIND 5 TO 10 KT WITH GUSTS TO 15 KT.
WIND WAVES 1 FOOT.
W SWELL 6 FT AT 12 SECONDS.
Walking well past the usual takeoff...
Rockfalls, mud and cloven hoofprints...
Pinnipeds lolling and shooting tubes...
Doing the rock dance in and out...
Left after left after left after left...
Clacking, clattering cobblestones...
That shift in unison like a school...
Of stonefish...dense and meaty...
Fish in a crystalline barrel...
A nearly perfect gift...
Off the 45th parellel.
NE WIND 5 TO 10 KT...BECOMING N 10 TO 15 KT IN THE AFTERNOON.
WIND WAVES 2 FT.
W SWELL 6 FT AT 12 SECONDS.
BUILDING TO W SWELL 7 FT AT 13 SECONDS. "A smooth layer of low-lying clouds seeps into the bays, low-lying coves, and waterways of the northwestern United States in this image captured by the Moderate Resolution Imaging Spectroradiometer (MODIS) on NASA’s Aqua satellite on September 29, 2006. Lining the coast, the pine-covered Coast Ranges hold the clouds back so that skies over the Pacific Northwest are clear. The stunning contrast between cloudy and clear skies is driven by the Earth’s rotation.
~from 'The Professor' via NASA
As the Earth spins on its axis, the movement pushes ocean surface waters west away from the western edge of continents. In a process called upwelling, cool water from deep in the ocean rises to replace the surface water. Upwelling creates a layer of cool water at the surface, which cools the air immediately above the water. As the moist, marine air cools, water vapor condenses into water droplets, and low clouds form. These lumpy, sheet-like clouds are marine stratocumulus clouds, and they are a common occurrence along the western coasts of the continents, where upwelling is common. Probably no higher than a kilometer (about 3,000 feet) above the Earth’s surface, the clouds in the image hug the coastline in echo of the cool ocean currents beneath them. In contrast, warm, dry air dominates over land, keeping skies cloud free".
NE WIND 10 TO 15 KT...BACKING TO N IN THE AFTERNOON.
GUSTS UP TO 20 KT.
WIND WAVES 2 FT.
W SWELL 4 FT AT 11 SECONDS.
BUILDING TO W SWELL 5 FT AT 12 SECONDS.
Here's a post off the OSP 'October Surf Report' from Dub Star...Spent the last few days visiting an old friend I hadn’t seen in 7 years. One late fall day he just split never to be seen again and sometime later I left town myself. I had heard through the grapevine he had been back, but only a few times and when I was around it was the longest he had ever stayed. During that time we became very close and I was left with great memories that lingered for 7 years.
Funny how some things never change. My old friend was exactly the way I remembered, ledging, hollow, and long. As I hopped off the reef for that first time and paddled over the kelpy rocks to meet the gloomy slabs, I sported an ear to ear perma grin though my hood. This was a moment I had waited on for a long time. I hung out exclusively with my old friend never to go more than 5 miles away and caught up on one of the most important things in my life, surfing. Pure surfing at it’s finest. Frontside and free! Snap after barrel after cuttie after turn with a tail slide mixed in for fun. After these long cold sessions I could only lay in my van lethargic, stoned, and blissed out as my dog licked the salt off my face.
After a year and a half living back in Oregon, I now feel that I am truly back. Thank you my friend for the good times. Life for me doesn’t get much better. I look very forward to the next time we meet again, my dearest of friends.
NE WIND 10 TO 15 KT...RISING TO 20 TO 25 KT THIS AFTERNOON.
WIND WAVES 2 FT...BUILDING TO 5 FT.
W SWELL 5 FT AT 8 TO 10 SECONDS.
When the surf gets good...
Some people will do anything...
To get to the beach.
S WIND 10 TO 15 KT...BECOMING NW 10 KT IN THE AFTERNOON.
WIND WAVES 2 FT.
NW SWELL 5 FT AT 10 SECONDS...BUILDING TO 8 FT AT 10 SECONDS.
Haven't caught this spot since early summer...
When the sand bars are working it can get very good...
Heaving close in a-frames breaking top to bottom...
Heavy rips, strong currents and relentless winds...
Sometimes converge to make it less than optimum though...
But catch it right and you can get pitted and spitted...
N WIND 10 TO 15 KT.
WIND WAVES 2 FT.
NW SWELL 7 FT AT 9 SECONDS.
The "Galena" went ashore near Gearhart, Oregon on November 13, 1906. The British vessel was on its way to load grain at Portland. She got too close to shore and was carried onto the beach by the surf. Sand built up around the hull before salvage could be carried out.
She was a four-masted iron/steel barque rigged with royal sails over double top and topgallant sails. Built and launched in December of 1890 by A. Stephen & Sons, Dundee.
NW WIND 15 TO 20 KT WITH GUSTS TO 25 KT.
WIND WAVES 4 FT.
NW SWELL 6 FT AT 10 SECONDS...BUILDING TO NW SWELL 8 FT AT 8 SECONDS.
Sometimes there's just no telling...
~from chum of sissyfish fame...
NW WIND 10 TO 15 KT.
WIND WAVES 2 FT.
NW SWELL 5 FT AT 12 SECONDS.
Came across this shot of a north coast spot showing some nice form...
N WIND 10 TO 20 KT.
WIND WAVES 3 FT.
NW SWELL 6 FT AT 8 SECONDS.
BUILDING TO W SWELL 7 FT AT 10 SECONDS IN THE EVENING.
This was the rule of the day yesterday afternoon...
Waist high lefts time after time after time...
Small enough that the paddle out was effortless...
And punchy enough to push you down the line...
If it had had another foot or two...
There would have been the opportunity for some little tubes.
N WIND 10 TO 15 KT.
WIND WAVES 2 FT.
NW SWELL 5 FT AT 8 SECONDS.
Y'know...it sucks when work gets in the way of fun...
Pulled up to the break this morning to see a few out on it...
Looked good, not great...I mulled, I hemmed, I hawed...
It was flooded and soft, but clean and glassy too...
Surf now and work later or work now and surf later?
I decided to go to work, reasoning that a lower tide would help...
About noon I wrapped up and headed south to check a spot...
It wasn't working, I checked another, and another, and another...
Everything was looking warbly and weak, I kept moving...
The south side of Yaquina Head looked ok, but not worth it.
I realized that I should have gone back to my original spot...
It was working this morning, It'd be working now...right?
Wrong...it looked like drek, no one out and with good reason...
I headed north, checking spot after spot after spot...
A cove on Cape Meares looked promising, but I kept going.
The further north I got the more it looked like I'd get skunked...
I saw the bait shop, I had my fishing pole, maybe catch a few?
Nah! I swung through hamlets, over rivers, around bays...
Pulled into the lot at the only protected cove on the North coast...
Low, low hopes...I walked down without my board I was so sure.
Standing on the bluff, there were about 5 guys out in waist high surf...
But guess what? The south end was a little bit bumpy but...
The middle was showing little a-frames that reeled left...
And held up nicely from the stiff north wind that was pushing through...
I ran back up the trail, not giddy...but much, much happier.
Packed up the gear, grabbed my board and headed back down...
Paddled out to where a peak was showing and picked off a few...
Worked my way around the beachbreak, mostly lefts with a right or two...
About an hour in, a sandbar started showing, offering head high left bowls...
That provided rippable walls with some actual juice.
I surfed about 3 hours or so, most of the waves were pretty small...
The rights had absolutely no push, but the lefts were consistently fun...
As the tide changed it started back off a bit and I was chasing...
Finally caught a fun one that deposited me into the shallows...
And called it a night...the sun dropped into sight...Score!
N WIND 10 KT WITH GUSTS TO 15 KT.
WIND WAVES 2 FT.
W SWELL 6 FT AT 11 SECONDS.
Almost looks semi-promising...
Although this may be the moment before...
The complete throwing closeout I experienced...
On many occasions during my last surf at this spot...
Hopefully the winds will stay calm through tomorrow...
N WIND 10 TO 15 KT.
WIND WAVES 2 FT.
W SWELL 6 FT AT 12 SECONDS.
Since it is the weekend of the Noll Classic it only makes sense...
Some quotes from "Legendary Surfers" website by Malcolm Gault-Williams...
"I was kind of like a mosquito always buzzing around Velzy. I had to get in there and see what was going on, boy, whenever he would put down a tool, I'd be right there to grab it. God I just drove him nuts, every time I'd pick up his drawknife, the Hawk would scream, 'Hey, put that down son, you'll cut yourself.' Somehow I had this hunch that he would eventually teach me. After months of dogging his every step and being his shadow, I was allowed to do some small task. I think it was sweeping up the balsa shavings. I was so pumped, it was like I'd arrived. It was totally bitchin'."
-- Greg Noll
"We grew up quickly, surrounded by guys eighteen and older, in their prime. They lived to surf, drink, raise hell and score heavily with women. I saw these guys going up and down the coast on surf trips, drinking and bagging girls, and all I could think of was 'What a neat life!'"
-- Greg Noll
"People turned around and came back to watch. An enormous crowd formed. Ampol Oil took films. When we left Australia, we also left our boards for the Aussies. Those films were shown all over the country to different clubs. The films and our boards became the basis for the modern surfboard movement in Australia."
-- Greg Noll
"After becoming established as a surfboard manufacturer and surf film producer whose films were shown on TV, all of a sudden all the teachers and counselors who wanted nothing to do with my ass during school were wanting to kiss it. They'd be interviewed by a newspaper of magazine and their tone would change. 'Oh yes, I knew Greg Noll. He was in my class. Fine, upstanding young man.' What bullshit."
-- Greg Noll
"The forbiddenness of the place is what made Waimea Bay so compelling. I wanted to try it but didn't have the balls to go out by myself. So I kept promoting the idea of breaking the Bay. Buzzy Trent, my main opponent, started calling me the Pied Piper of Waimea. He said, 'Follow Greg Noll and he'll lead you off the edge of the world. You'll all drown like rats if you listen to the Pied Piper of Waimea Bay.'
One day in November, we stopped at Waimea just to take a look. I finally jerked my board off the top of the car and did it."
-- Greg Noll talking about November 5, 1957
"Within minutes, word spread into Haleiwa that Waimea Bay was being ridden. We looked across the point and saw cars and people lining up along the road watching the crazy haoles riding Waimea Bay. There must have been a hundred people -- a big crowd for that time."
-- Greg Noll on Waimea, November 5, 1957
"I'd love to say something heroic. I'd love to say we made history. But basically it was a bunch of guys parked around the Bay there, and somebody grabbed a board and went surfing, and it looked so good the rest of us guys said, 'Hey, we got to get in on this.'"
-- Greg Noll on November 5, 1957, in Surfers, The Movie
"Phil Edwards is the guy who tagged me with the nickname Da Bull. One time, when we were at Pipeline, he accused me of being bullheaded because I knew I was going to get wiped out on this one wave, and instead of ejecting like I should have, I just squatted down and got eaten alive. Afterwards, Phil said, "You bullheaded sonofabitch, I think I'll just call you Da Bull from now on." The name stuck."
-- Greg Noll
"I hated seeing the drug scene shift into high gear like it did. I feel a little self-righteous standing on my soapbox with a bottle of beer in my hand, and I can't claim to have been a total virgin when it came to experimenting with drugs. But I can look back over the years and say that I saw a lot of neat, healthy young kids who I know would have become great athletes if they hadn't gotten overly involved in drugs and gone straight down the shit chute. With some guys, drugs became a way of life. They went through tremendous personality changes, or they died. Drugs didn't do them any good. In the same way, at certain times in my life, alcohol didn't do me any good. A lot of kids today seem to be taking themselves, their health and their education more seriously, and that's good."
-- Greg Noll
"... They all were well-known big-wave riders, including Fred Hemmings, Bobby Cloutier, Wally Froiseth, Jimmy Blears. I had surfed different places with these guys for years. You could tell that this was no normal day. Usually, we're out there laughing, joking, giving each other a hard time. When the surf gets really big, all that bullshit goes out the window. At Waimea, for instance, when the surf starts coming up, guys' attitudes would change. Peter Cole would get a little more hyper, Buzzy Trent would start talking faster, Pat Curren would get quieter. Peter likes to joke about how I'd start hyperventilating extra loud to try to psych guys out. Today it was serious business. No laughing, no joking. Some of the guys were glassy-eyed and there was talk of calling in the helicopters. Since that morning, when many of the guys had first paddled out, the surf had been steadily building. Now, it was at a size where all but the most experienced big-wave riders call it quits."
-- Greg Noll talking about Makaha, December 4, 1969
"After I had analyzed what I'd done, I asked myself, 'You're not going to top that, so where do you go from here? What so you do now?' I didn't want to be like a punch-drunk fighter, going around and reliving the big moment..."
-- Greg Noll talking about Makaha, December 1969
