Friday, April 06, 2007

Guardians of the "Spot"


S WIND 10 TO 15 KT. GUSTs UP TO 20 KT AFTER MIDNIGHT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 7 FT AT 12 SECONDS.
I sometimes will snap pics of waves on the Oregon coast...usually after surfing...or in the course of long recons. I did this 15 years ago with film and I do it now with a digital camera. I try not to post pics of sensitive spots or even of known spots unless I have cropped out recognizable landmarks...
On some levels I am also concerned and protective of the breaks I surf...there's no question the lineups have grown progressively more crowded and I am sure this summer will be a record breaker crowd-wise...on the other hand it's an inevitability in the course of time that with more people crowding our planet, our state and our coastline that the crowds in the water will increase...
I have done my best to dissuade others from entering this very dangerous and wasteful activity...although some might look at this blog as part of the problem...maybe they are right...but I think that the majority of people that read this blog and others like it are the kind of people we need in the water and communicating what it means to be a surfer while at the same time being responsible for the protection and guardianship of this natural resource.
Oh yeah...I surfed today...not as good as Wednesday...but a few bombs out there that were rideable and racy...I'll post a report later.

5 comments:

Gaz said...

Surfed about 2:30 till 5. GC went pretty mental for that time. Would have been brutal with the Hynson underfoot tho'.

Doc said...

Surfed in about the same time frame at "Pweoes" (place where every one else surfs)...You know that spot?...It was semi mental in the sense that (at least when I looked at GC) it was half again bigger...there were some mackers coming through that were quite unforgiving...lots of "Come to Jesus" scrambles out...followed by brutal Hynson rockerless drops that were mostly successful... still wish I had a shorter board today though.

Chum said...

Interesting you should mention that. I too respect the "locals" at most Oregon spots, but I'm also well aware of places that are public knowledge and essentially environments where beginners should be encouraged to go - when the conditions are accomodating, of course.

We were shooting a movie in the whitewater at shorties yesterday and some douche bags hucked rocks at our photographer. I was teaching people to surf for the first time. It's laughable that someone would be posessive of that beach, considering that even nonsurfers think of it first when asked where people surf on the Oregon Coast.

Who are the locals there, anyway? Certainly not a couple cowards who were talking about Gorge Performance on the way back up the trail...

You saw the conditions yesterday. No amount of movie magic could have made the surf look desirable. You couldn't "fix that in the mix."

I certainly would never out any "secret" spots that aren't already well known to the Portland outdoor community. Believe me, I have had plenty of opportunities to do so.

It will forever be an interesting topic to people like us, who document the incredible experience of surfing in Oregon.

Doc said...

Now I wish I had stayed...I'm not a tough guy and don't look for trouble...but I have a low tolerance for idiots or rock tossers...

indytrucker said...

There seems to be no shortage of assholes in the world. Ross throwing is an act of true cowards and agree with Doc, I would stir something up with anyone doing that at the beach.