Turn On It, Tune Out, Drop In

SW WIND 25 TO 30 KT. COMBINED SEAS 10 FT DOMINANT PERIOD 13 SECONDS.

I had to work on the north coast this morning in Gearhart...
Checked a nearby spot to the south before my meeting...
It wasn't really working but looked to improve with the tide...
Checked back and it had improved, just not too much...
There were 3 out front, and 2 down south...
Warbling cylinders swallowed up one taker...
Then a massive clean up wave broke well outside...
Unridden hollow lefts swept through in it's wake...
Burying the surfers scratching for the outside...
Headed south to check a few other places...
But knew there'd likely be little on tap other than visuals...
Small clean righthand peelers inside a jetty setup...
A boat crossing a closed out sketchy bar...
An empty parking lot at Oregon's favorite cove...
Snow in the pass.

NW WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 3 FT. W SWELL 12 FT AT 9 SECONDS.

So this was the shot by Stoner I was thinking of in yesterday's post...
Mick from Safe To Surf was kind enough to set the record straight...
Yesterday's peelers are from a still out of the film Liquid Time...
By Monty Webber and here's the link http://www.liquidtime.info

N TO NE WIND 10 TO 15 KT. W SWELL 8 FT AT 14 SECONDS.

I wish that was the question…
Sadly, for me…
Not to surf is the answer…
And it is looking pretty solid today…

Yesterday looked pretty good too…
And, yes, I missed it then as well…
I did spy someone I know though…
At least I think it was him…
Sitting way outside at his spot…
Awaiting an approaching wall…

And a final congrats & cartoon…
For Chum at Sissyfish…
On the birth of his baby…
It may affect some DP’s…
But it’s pretty worth it…
I speak from experience…
As I’ve got 2 of them at home…
Well, they're bigger now…
But they were babies once…

• Kooky cartop configurations of surfboards
• Warm, sunny days on the beach
• Girls in bikinis & summer dresses
• Kooks with wetsuits on backwards
• Long days with surf until 10pm
• Drinking beer & surfing waist high waves
• Kooks sitting backwards on their soft tops
• Pushing my kids into little waves
• Beach fires under starry skies
• Dodging kooks on waves that don't matter
• Backlit harmless windswell

A few things I like about fall & winter:

• Fewer kooks to dodge on the inside
• The end of prevailing north winds (not this past summer tho!)
• Less fat people in bathing suits
• Inability of kooks to get outside
• Groundswell
• Drinking beer when it's unsurfable
• Buying a beginner's board at 1/2 the original cost
• Seeing spots work that don't all summer
• Storms spinning in the Gulf of Alaska
• Helicopter rides for the inept
• Black, meaty concrete slabs of surf