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Wednesday, January 31, 2007

Increase

1 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 8:41 AM


E TO NE WIND 10 TO 15 KT...
WITH GUSTS TO 20 KT NEAR GAPS IN COASTAL TERRAIN.
WIND WAVES 2 TO 3 FT.
W SWELL 5 FT AT 13 SECONDS... BUILDING TO 7 FT.

A quick and shortlived drop in size from early in the week looks to bump back up into the 7 to 8 foot range...
Hopefully the period will hold and those east winds will blow, blow, blow.

 

Tuesday, January 30, 2007

Yesterday

3 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 9:20 AM






NE WIND 15 KT WITH GUSTS TO 25 KT.
WIND WAVES 4 FT.
W SWELL 6 FT AT 13 SECONDS.

A few shots from yesterday's foray...
Central and North coast...

 

Monday, January 29, 2007

Choices

1 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 6:56 PM


NE WIND 10 TO 15 KT.
WIND WAVES 2 FT.
W SWELL 6 FT AT13 SECONDS.


Packed the car up last night. Checking the forecast, it looked like the swell was dropping hard...so I squeezed the 9'6" in too. Arrived earlier than I planned so took a look at a couple spots since I didn't have to work til 10:30. The first couple breaks were closing out a bit, but the third was looking really solid...head high and peeling left and right. Checking the time I sw I had an hour so I quickly changed and paddled out. Getting out was pretty easy, but the waves were racier than I thought and pulling in backside got swallowed up my first two waves. But the third right opened up and then walled up for a fun, but short ride. Caught a couple more waves, both lefts, that were to fast to make...so it was a 1 for 5 kinda morning. It was all I could squeeze in given short time frame.


Finished up work at about noon and thought about heading back to the same spot, but the tide was going out and I knew it wouldn't be working the same. There were a few other peaks I knew would be firing but they were south and I needed to go north. Checked a few spots that had some takers, but looked pretty average and definitely smaller..."Good call in the longboard ", I thought. Kept heading up the coast and opted for a a spot off a big haystack. I couldn't see the peak I was gonna surf and I grabbed the longboard in anticipation of smalle waves. When I got down to the beach it looked alot bigger than I had expected. I thought about going back up to switch boards, but was too lazy and didn't want to waste the time...mistake.


Made it out fine, despite some pretty solid bombs. Set up just outside the dissipating foam of the last wave and waited...and waited...and waited. Naturally, I slowly inched in since no waaves were coming through...mistake. A head high wave came in and I paddled for it and missed. Turning around I saw peaks freight training towards me and I turned and scratched. Having the LB now was an advantage as I was able to scrape over the shoulders of the first two, only to be confronted by a feathering face about 20 yards out that detonated right in front of me. I actually held on to my board, but then took a few more on the head and experienced the rest of the set up close and personal.


It finally let up and again the ocean was calm and inviting. So I paddled back out and set up a bit further out and waited. A right appeared and jumped as it felt the bottom, very fast and a bit bumpy. I hadn't been on the 9'6" since the end of summer and it felt pretty fun but definitely not the board for the waves. Caught a few more that weren't much more than quick drops and close outs requiring a fast exit. Again a long lull made me wait, but I stayed in position not wanting to get caught inside. The waves showed and I moved out a bit, letting the first couple pass. I turned on the third and paddled hard...it was a nice lined up left, just over head and "Wave of the day" I thought. I thought wrong. It jacked up and I stood to make the drop...I didn't really count on the additional 2 feet of board and watched as I cranked off the bottom (tried to crank off the bottom, rather), those 2 feet of nose bury themselves in the trough and launch me into the pit.


I got worked, and then the set from Neptune arrived to drive me to shore. I tried for about 20 minutes to work my way back out, not wanting to end on a wipeout...but it wasn't meant to be. I finally admitted defeat and headed in. I took a few pics and relaxed in the January sun. So, it wasn't as bad as it sounds...but the afternoon surf was definitely lumpy and weird, lotsa crossed up swell making the waves do odd things.


 

Sunday, January 28, 2007

Continuity

1 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 10:15 AM




NE WIND 10 TO 20 KT WITH A FEW GUSTS TO 25 KT THIS MORNING.
WIND WAVES 4 FT. W SWELL 9 TO 10 FT AT 15 SECONDS...
SUBSIDING TO 8 FT AT 15 SECONDS IN THE AFTERNOON.
~
Yesterday it was a screaming left...this morning a walling right. Probably not makeable, but stacked to the horizon. Looks like lots of good surf up and down the Pacific Northwest coast today. Corduroy rules!
~
It's been a busy week for the USCG in Oregon. A couple guys got in over their heads it appears at a popular north coast cove. Nothing like having the big orange helicoptor come and get you and then having your name in the paper:


Coast Guard rescues surfer off Oregon coast
06:15 PM PST on Saturday, January 27, 2007
By NICK BRADSHAW, kgw.com Staff


A Coast Guard helicopter was called in to rescue a surfer stranded in the water off the coast of Cannon Beach Saturday.
Coast Guard Search and Rescue controller Bob Coster said Saturday around 9:49 a.m. the Coast Guard received an assistance request from the Seaside 911 dispatch center. Apparently Seaside dispatch received a call for help regarding two surfers reportedly having trouble in the water at "The Cove" at the North end of Indian Beach just North of Cannon Beach.
Coster said Cannon Beach Fire and Rescue responded to the scene and called for helicopter support.
A Coast Guard helicopter from Astoria was dispatched to the area.
On the way to the scene, Coster said, the Coast Guard got word that one surfer was able to get out of the water on his own but another was still stranded and needed help.
Coster said a rescue crew arrived on scene, lowered a rescue swimmer down and pulled the stranded surfer up in to safety in the helicopter.
The surfer, identified as 47-year-old Kevin Devoll of Aloha, apparently started feeling better in the helicopter and refused treatment once the chopper landed at a local hospital.
~
Local Reports:

Lessons re-learned today, courtesy of a swell with a little snap to it:


1. That lazy, half-@ssed mid-face push thru you try to get away with? NOT really an effective duckdiving technique.


2. You get plenty of time to ruminate on point #1, above, as you're being sucked over the falls backward.


3. They say time expands when you're in the tube. I say time REALLY expands from the moment you feel that first gentle backward tug, through to when you realize that you've really, really goofed this up. And you're going to pay.


4. Even though time expands, it apparently doesn't expand long enough for you to get a decent breath.


5. And of all the ways to get sucked over the falls backward, try to avoid this: When the nose of your board goes straight back over your head, so you ride down with the lip, clutching your board, upside down, backward, nose first. Yeah. Don't be that guy.


All in all, pretty fun day at the Abusement Park. Went on ALL the rides.


~stinkbug

And a nice end to the day...from the lack of comments on today's surf I can only conclude that it was stellar...



 

Saturday, January 27, 2007

Reeling

1 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 9:04 AM


NE WIND 15 TO 25 KT.
WIND WAVES 5 FT.
W SWELL 7 TO 8 FT AT 17 SECONDS.
~
When you see pics like this it's hard to believe there's no surf in Oregon...
Nonetheless, it's nice to see what a 17 second period can do with an eight foot swell...
Getting to this left is no picnic, I assure you...
Not to mention...cold, fickle & sharky.
~
On a more sober note...
A crabbing boat was rolled on the Tillamook Bar on Thursday night, ending up on the south jetty...
~
Ship, life lost at roiling bar
A harrowing ordeal on the jetty spares three crabbers heading into Garibaldi

Saturday, January 27, 2007 LORI TOBIAS

TILLAMOOK -- Spirits were high aboard the crabbing vessel the Starrigavan: After a season of late starts and lousy weather, the four-man crew was returning to port with more than 5,000 pounds of crab.

"We were starving, and we finally got crab" said Sam Johnson, a crew member. "After all this season, we were finally catching crab."

"And we were actually going to get paid," added Gregory Phillips, called "Green," short for greenhorn, because this was his first season.

It was Thursday night, and after two days at sea, the Starrigavan was bound for the Port of Garibaldi by way of the Tillamook bar. But by the time the men saw the white water on the churning bar, it was too late.

Hours later, one man was dead, and the 58-foot steel-hulled boat was ripped apart and lying on the south jetty's rocks. Two of the survivors, Johnson, 39, and Phillips, 23, described Friday how the promising fishing trip turned into a nightmare.

The Starrigavan departed on Tuesday from the Port of Newport with Kirk Opheim, 23, of Burlington, Wash., at the helm and Ken "Skinny" Venard, 50, as well as Johnson of Seattle and Phillips of Siletz.

"It was beautiful," Johnson recalled from his bed at the Tillamook County General Hospital, where he was treated for injuries. "It's always beautiful out there. We were catching crab; we were flowing."

Heading in

At about 9 p.m., the Starrigavan began its return journey across the bar, the notoriously dangerous stretch of water at the entrance to the jetties where bay waters meet head-on with the churning ocean. At that place, sand tends to build up, making the area shallow and even more volatile. In 2004, the charter fishing boat Taki-Tooo went down there, killing 11. And in February 2006, the Catherine M, a commercial fishing vessel, floundered while heading in, claiming the lives of three fishermen.

On Thursday, 11-foot seas and 17-mph winds prompted the U.S. Coast Guard to close the bar to recreational and small vessels. But that should not have been a problem for the Starrigavan.

"It should have been safe enough for a vessel of that size to get through unless something went wrong on the boat," said Shawn Eggert, a Coast Guard spokesman. "That they closed the bar at all indicates the weather was a little rough."

First wave hits

The first of several 25-foot waves set the boat rocking, Phillips said. Then, as the skipper struggled to right the boat and get back out to safer waters, Johnson saw a second wave coming and yelled for his mates to brace themselves. "I was looking it right in the eye," Johnson said. "It was like it was coming after us."

Opheim had just enough time to radio one mayday before the wave struck. "Ever see a wave control a 92-ton vessel?" Phillips asked. "Look inside a washing machine and watch the clothing tumble over and over and over."

The third wave flipped the Starrigavan. It would roll three times before the waves slammed it up against the south jetty's rocks.

Inside the wheelhouse, it was chaos. "Skinny was pinned," Johnson recalled. "Greg and me pushed him out the door."

On deck, the men, pressed by the seas to the deck rails, struggled with their survival suits. "Skinny was against the rail trying to put his on, and it just sucked it off of him," Johnson said of the waves. "Mine, I was tied up across my chest, just tangled in this mess of wires."

Against the wheelhouse

The men managed to get off the rails and up against the wheelhouse bulkhead, which offered some protection from the seas. But the boat was shattered, and the upper deck was slamming into them, Phillips said. From shore, someone flashed lights, and the crew knew they'd been spotted. Help was on the way.

About half an hour into the ordeal, the Coast Guard arrived by boat and began sending up flares, but reaching the Starrigavan would be too treacherous. There was nothing to do but await the rescue helicopter en route from Astoria.

By then, the men, wearing only shirts and jeans, were suffering from hypothermia, and Venard's condition was deteriorating. About one hour after the mayday call, a Coast Guard helicopter lowered a rescue swimmer by basket to the boat, and the crew members and rescue swimmer began working to get Venard into the basket.

"I had Skinny by the legs," Johnson said. "The diver had him by the arms. We didn't see the wave coming. It ripped Skinny right out of my hands. He smashed into the other side of the boat. When I saw him again, Skinny was in bad shape. I thought if we could just get Skinny out first, we were all going to make it."

"Wouldn't give up"

The waves kept pounding them, but the rescue swimmer wouldn't quit.

"He took a beating like I've never seen before," Johnson said. "He just wouldn't give up. He kept telling us, 'You guys are going to be OK. I'm here, you are going to make it.' "

Three of them did. Venard died later that night at the hospital from his injuries. Phillips and Opheim were released Friday morning. Johnson remained hospitalized with cuts all over his body.

Friday night, the Coast Guard reported that the boat was on the south side of the south jetty at the bar entrance, about 500 yards from shore. It was upright in about 12 feet of water.

As Johnson recalled the events that claimed his buddy, his voice gave way to emotion. "He was a good spirit, always willing to offer his shirt off his back," Johnson said. "On New Year's Eve, we were on the boat. No one had any money. He spent his last $5 to get me a calling card to call my wife."

"He gave all"

In Newport, friends had started a collection for Venard's three children in Colorado, said Debra Burrus, owner of a boat Venard had worked aboard for 11/2 years. "He was the most awesome kind of guy," she said. "He was the kind of guy who put all his friends first. He gave all and took nothing."

Although this was his first season, Phillips wants to go back out fishing. Johnson isn't so sure.

"To tell you the truth, at this moment I'm afraid to even step on a dock," Johnson said. "I'm tired of walking by benches and seeing my friend's names on them. I thought I was next. Skinny didn't deserve that. I wish it would have been me."

 

Friday, January 26, 2007

Stylin'

2 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 11:08 AM


E WIND 10 TO 15 KT WITH GUSTS TO 20 KT.
LOCAL GUSTS UP TO 25 KT NEAR COASTAL GAPS LATE AFTERNOON.
WIND WAVES 2 FT.
It's all about making it look easy and smooth on a 9' 6"...
All the better when the crossstepper's worth watching...

W SWELL 10 FT AT 11 SECONDS.

 

Thursday, January 25, 2007

Resource

0 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 9:38 AM


SE WIND 10 TO 15 KT.
WIND WAVES 2 FT.
W SWELL 10 FT AT 12 SECONDS.
~
I see many surfers approach waves as a sort of conquest. Much of the vocabulary is violent and aggressive...bash, slash, tear and gouge. Perhaps it is a level of maturity or understanding of self and how we fit into the universe...(if you can ever truly understand what that means fully)...and more specifically, how we fit into, and utilize, this small, wonderful aspect of the universe and our planet...waves.
~
We are incredibly small riders tapping into something of massive, pulsing scale. Many surfer's attitude towards the ocean, land and nature itself, is as sadly unenlightened as any other person. But participation and protection of these resources, not just surf related resources, is paramount to our survival; especially in the face of our own ability as a natural force to alter the face of the planet, it's systems and habitats.
~
Our actions, despite our seemingly individual meaninglessness, have an ever increasing capacity to act in conservation or towards destruction...intentional or not. As a part of nature, any activities that reduce the planet are reductions of our own existence. Loss of a breaking wave, a species or even of simple recognition of our personal responsibility to nature reduces the very richness of our existence.
~
The changes occurring today, in our small world, require a renewed committment to, and recognition of, the value of nature in all it's forms...the oceans, lands and lifeforms that are teetering on the brink. We, as people, have in many ways proven our mastery of nature...but our understanding of the consequences of this mastery remains unknown. Our abilities, intelligence and power as a whole now need to be turned towards another conquest...mastery of ourselves, our needs and desires.

 

Wednesday, January 24, 2007

Mr. Pipeline

3 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 1:07 PM


S WIND 10 TO 15 KT.
WIND WAVES 2 FT.
W SWELL 9 FT AT 11 SECONDS.
Need I say it...
On of my all time favorite shots...
Of one of my all time favorite surfers...
By one of my all time favorite photogs...
~photo by Jeff Divive

 

Tuesday, January 23, 2007

SS Phyllis

1 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 9:01 AM


S WIND 10 TO 20 KT.
WIND WAVES 3 FT.
W SWELL 11 FT AT 12 SECONDS.

The Wreck of the SS Phyllis
~
On the night of March 9, 1936, Coast Guardsmen from the Port Orford Lifeboat Station rescued the crew of the steamship Phyllis. The SS Phyllis was a 215 feet long, 1266 tons displacement steam schooner built in 1917 at Aberdeen, Washington by the Aberdeen Shipbuilding Company. The ship plied the Portland-San Francisco route carrying general cargo as part of the Chamberlin Steamship Company.
~
The Phyllis was en route to Portland from San Francisco when it encountered bad weather and began taking on water. By the time the vessel had reached the southern Oregon coast, it had taken over four feet of water in her hold, overwhelming the capacity of the pumps. The ship's master, Captain Victor Jacobsen, decided to run the ship ashore. In the grounding process in the fog, the ship's hull was torn by the rocky coastline one mile north of Humbug Mountain between Coal Point and the Redfish Rocks.
~
After the vessel was wrecked, the 22-man crew took to their lifeboats and headed away from the rocky shore out to smoother waters of the open ocean, firing signal flares. The flares were seen by the Coast Guard Lifeboat Station at Port Orford. Crews from the station put to sea and brought the crewmen to safety.
~

 

Saturday, January 20, 2007

Not There

1 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 7:35 AM


NW WIND 20 TO 25 KT...BECOMING W 10 TO 15 KT.
WIND WAVES 5 FT...SUBSIDING TO 2 FT.
W SWELL 10 FT AT 13 SECONDS.
I am outta town...
See ya Tuesday.
I can relate to the report below...Twang!
Local (Gettin' Old) Report:

The waves looked fair this morning and it looked like it was going to get ugly soon, so I decided to go out for a little while. This would be my eighth day in a row and I was starting to feel a little run down. On Wednesday, I felt a very minor twinge in my left (back leg) groin muscle as I kicked out of a wave. It was no big problem, so I kept surfing. There was one other guy out as I suited up. I decided to take my 8-0 Bates Seven out for a change since the 7-4 is beat up and needed to dry out before I could do ding repair. I walked down the beach and the other dude, a regular from LC, decided to quit. I waded out into the rip and paddled out, trying to locate the rocks since it was nearing high tide. The rip was pulling me out quickly and I couldn't see the rocks, so I paddled S to make sure I avoided them. As I was about even with the rocks, a set came and I pushed the nose of the 8-0 under the first wave. It started to push me back, so I strained to keep on top of the board as I envisioned the barnacles on the rocks and the damage they would do if I got flipped over on my back and landed on them. Then I felt a little snap as the groin muscle pulled. Crap! I turned and belly rode the next wave in since I couldn't even pop up on the leg. End of session. No waves. Session doesn't even count.

~holddown

 

Friday, January 19, 2007

Lifesaver

1 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 7:29 AM


S WIND RISING TO 25 KT THIS MORNING...
VEERING TO W 20 KTIN THE AFTERNOON.
WIND WAVES 6 FT...SUBSIDING TO 4 FT IN THE AFTERNOON.
W SWELL 8 FT AT 11 SECONDS...
BUILDING TO 10 FT AT 11SECONDS.
Denied...denied...denied.
Outta town for a few days...
Back in time for Tuesday perfection...
Surely...

 

Thursday, January 18, 2007

The Rez

0 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 12:05 PM


S WIND 20 TO 25 KT.
WIND WAVES 5 FT.
W SWELL 8 FT AT11 SECONDS.
Getting kinda antsy...looks like I missed my window...south winds don't do much for the waves...and tomorrow ain't looking up either...oh well...headed south for a biz trip on Saturday...Monday's winds look like they may swing to out of the east...then it's on.
Local Report (outta the WA):

Decided to take a HUGE risk, and went to a res spot. As I was going out, met by a guy who resided by the beach, quite large in fact. Began to lecture me on how I was parking on his street, and using his beach, his this, his that, blah blah blah...and then mentioned his family name. Turns out his two nephews are my next door neighbors and little brother's best friends. Access Granted. Risk worth it, nice A frame peak with *surprise*! no one on it. As the tide lowered, got a lil' dumpy, but getting as much speed as possible and trying to make the sections was rather exciting. Back to school today..........definently not as much fun as the water.

~lappis

 

Wednesday, January 17, 2007

Wishful

1 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 8:56 AM


NE WIND 5 TO 10 KT.
WIND WAVES 1 FOOT.
W SWELL 9 FT AT14 SECONDS.
Stuck again in the valley...supposed to surf Tuesday...supposed to surf tomorrow...snow everywhere...maybe Friday...I doubt it'll look like the pic...but I'm hoping.
One report below kinda sums up Surf in Oregon...surf, climb, ski, fish, hunt...what have you...still, cold...fickle...sharky...in the water at least.
Local Reports:

...surfed almost perfect lefts up North on Friday, then some nearly double overhead rights the next day at a spot nearby, then drove down to Smith Rock and was climbing in the sunshine on Sunday and Monday, and then got a snow day today [Tuesday] and sat around the fire drinking filth...

~bison

Decided on a more southern route then normal yesterday, as I feared the icy roads and wanted to explore that which I have yet explored. Was greeted by strong offshores and some clean, reeling rights and frigid wind. Continued to explore south. Found a protected stretch whose glass was pristine, though the waves were mostly closing out. Continued further south and found the offshores again. Turned back and returned to the glass. Shoulders had appeared with the drop in tide and I watched in awe of a three wave, OH set that peeled as if off a left point. Oh my. Watched a gun-toting lone ranger wade out to the white water and practice his belly slides. I suited up and caught a few delicious waves that fertilized my recently barren-of-waves soul and returned before I could be bitten, frozen or drowned for lack of targets, warmth or recent conditioning.

~fojo

 

Tuesday, January 16, 2007

Mystery

0 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 7:31 AM


S WIND 20 TO 25 KT...
BECOMING W 10 TO 15 KT BY MID-MORNING...
THEN VEERING TO NW IN THE AFTERNOON.
WIND WAVES 5FT...SUBSIDING TO 2 FT.
W SWELL 6 FT AT 13 SECONDS...
BUILDING TO 9FT AT 11 SECONDS.

Had plans to surf today...but too much snow, so bagging the drive.

Thursday's looking better anyway...

Looks like a few folks are getting some and giving up the goods...

Local Reports:
...went out and surfed with my Dad and cousin today. Checked a spot my cuz had recently stumbled upon during a long hike along the north coast (for the record, by stumbled upon, I mean we had though it could be surfable before....he was the first one to see it with the proper conditions). The take off is really simple - a wide zone that doesn't steepen very quick; in fact my Dad was in on the wave really early on his longboard. A couple seconds after you take off the peak kind of mushes down the face, and the wave starts reeling, not too fast, but you don't want to dink around or you will get caught behind the lip. If you don't botch it to this point, (and you have to try hard to botch it), the wave just opens up all of a sudden. It just starts pitching over you section after section. I'm terrible at pulling into the green room, but you can literally just sit mid-face on the wave and let the lip fly over you, it's beautiful. And if you aren't into the whole barrel thing [!!!], you can just carve up and down forever. Anyway, being just us three we surfed for two hours and were exhausted. The rides were pretty long, all the way into the closeout right before you hit dry sand. All the patience has finally paid off. Its amazing to see what happens if you pursue your dreams/fantasies and they actually come true. All my hope for finding more new breaks is restored. I'm stoked again. Its sweet.

~lappis

Wow! Two days in a row...bitter cold...sat around the corner...swell bringing head high roping lefts every 10 mins...tried to maintain position at the end peak, but the current was ebbing strongly...got a couple, then my hands started to go numb...a few sets broke outta reach...got a few more shorter rides...the east wind started to hack at the peak...went in, kept the suit on, heated up...checked the other peaks, negative...went back, a little more glassy...tide a little more slack...nice left lines...stood on the rocks too long, started to shiver...went home sunday morning, opted for pre game festivities...after the disappointing finish made the call to the usual spot to wash the season away...late afternoon perfection...flawless 16 sec swell...not a cloud in the sky...slightly overhead sets, ocassional 200 yard walls that would take 15 minutes to cycle back...the lineup coulda used a few more waves before dark descended, but the ones that were had were fablously lined up and powerful...got the biggest and best ride as the sun dissappeared...racing from the takeoff 50 yards and wacking the top three times in rapid succession as the wave wound up for another long section...got around and was too spent to lay into it, but rode the whitewater inside as my hands started to hurt...could barely get the fly zip off...my fingers seemed frostbitten headed home with the heaters full blast.

~pro moe

I went to ********** where the only way out was to hike to the tip of the cape. Then with a running head start you jump off the one hundred fifty foot cliff, timed so that you land in the water just as the water surge is going out. It should also be noted that the only way to clear the rocks is to use your board like a wing which also slows you down for impact against the water. After killing one, two, possibly eight sharks on the way to a perfect hard-bottomed point break, a cleanup set started coming in, which was perfect 'cause I was already way outside peepin' the set up. So I air dropped into my bottom turn and eased into a spitting stand up barrel when the Mother of all the sharks I had recently slaughtered, attempted aerial vengeance, but failed and in doing such, I was tubed by her which brings my standupbarrelbyashark count to five. No biggy, but a lurching shadow and her dorsals' last three inches of her 29 were closing in on me. I proceeded to do what anyone else would do and performed a roundhouse not seen since Maverick from Top Gun placed himself behind the Mig-29 while trying to save Goose. Instead of botching it like Maverick though, I made my line high on the wave paralell with the beast when my sixth sense told me it was time to cut back, and cut I did. Coming straight down the wave I sliced her from gill to gill with my fins as I dexteriously reached into the center slice and grabbed her still pumping heart. The shadow of her carcass faded as it sunk to be claimed by Poseidon. Finally, with all that out of the way, I was able to enjoy the rest of the wave with out interruption, except; for maybe a pleasant midwave snack.

~pra

This kind of stuff is pretty run of the mill...killing monster sharks with your bare hands (and skegs)...jumping off ragged capes into rock strewn lineups...sneaking past scout masters into mysto point breaks...basic Surf in Oregon.

 

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Monday, January 15, 2007

Peace

0 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 1:20 PM


SE WIND 15 TO 20 KT...
WITH A FEW GUSTS TO 25 KT NEAR COASTAL GAPS IN THE MORNING.
WIND WAVES 4 FT...
SUBSIDING TO 2 FTIN THE AFTERNOON.
W SWELL 6 FT AT 14 SECONDS.

The inimitable Montgomery "Buttons" Kaluhiokalani...photo by Jeff Divine
~
Local report from Dub:

3 day run.

6 @ 20 had me frothing as I drove over the frozen Coast Range passes, looking more like the Cascades than the Coast Range. 6 @ 20, a magic number for me, but that's a whole other story in another place south. NE winds, so I made a left and found solid swell, perfect offshores, but no sand bars. I did find solid snowpack and ice on the 101! Ended up at an usual as I was over the road conditions and had lost hope in searching some of my other haunts further south. Grabbed the fish (my old one) when I hoped to grab my semi, sucked it up and hiked down on a snow covered trail. Solid energy with no bars to really focus on and really this spot is never that good on a long period anyway, but given the right place and the right time a decent wave could be had.

The session was just another reminder of Oregon surf, everything could look perfect and still be pretty much shit. 8 @ 17 + or - the next 2 days with winds switching to SE and then E. Spent Sat morning checking a couple spots, but knowing there's only one winter spot that's reliable this time of year and that's where I ended up. Bounced around from wave to wave as all 3 were working.

The locals opted for a different one than normal, so I let the rip take me all the way out. Real nice is all I can say, but not perfect and probably why I found my window. Yesterday morning, 26 degrees with a hefty wind chill from the east winds. Pulled in pre-dawn and in the water with no hesitation. To my surprise several others had the same idea and motivation I did despite the arctic conditions. People are hungry right now and it was just about perfect. That's all I can say. Caught my 5 wave quota and got the hell out of dodge as people were amping and attitudes would sure be flaring.

As for the snow, it was amazing to see. Old timers were saying they had never seen anything like it. There was close to a foot at a friend's place who lives on a hill overlooking the bay. It's just not going anywhere as the continued cold temps are keeping it intact on the north facing slopes. My motto was take it slow. Coastal towns were transformed into Mountain towns. Great to see, but quickly getting tired of the cold. Looks like more cold surf on tap. Guess I'll be back.

 

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Sunday, January 14, 2007

Treadmill

3 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 10:05 AM


E WIND 15 KT GUSTS TO 20 KT.
WIND WAVES 3 FT.
W SWELL 7 FT AT 15 SECONDS.
~
Surfing inside rivermouths, around jetties and inside harbors are sometimes one of the few options available when the surf is in the double digits. Spots like these aren't generally the highest performance waves on the coast but can provide relief when the usual suspects are undoable. It can be tricky and tiring at any times other than around tide changes...otherwise lots of paddling to stay in position. Surfing's equivalent of a treadmill?
~
Things are looking good today...sadly I am on the road and then trapped watching football...Go Chargers!

 

Saturday, January 13, 2007

Trademarks

3 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 10:32 AM

~photo by holddown

E WIND 5 TO 10 KT.
WIND WAVES 1 FOOT.
W SWELL 7 FT AT 17 SECONDS.

~Rare sighting of specie "brohamptus sooloodropsis" off the Chief Kiawanda Rock...

~The following was a compilation (with unsolicited additions) that a few posters on the OSP collaborated to put together a long while back...I can't remember who, if it was you...let me know.

It was a gray, rainy day…the waves were cold and lonely. The bearded Grizzly Adams[TM]-esque local scowled as I parked my Rangerover[TM] Deluxe Edition next to his rusted out ’79 Toyota Tercel[TM] in the cobbled lot. I was struck by the lack of sweet surf stickers on his Tercel. My Rover was plastered with them…I mean, I had them all; Hurley[TM], Billabong[TM], Reef[TM], O’Neill[TM], RipCurl[TM], Quiksilver[TM], Rusty[TM] and a sweet new Hollister[TM] that I had picked up at the valley mall yesterday. I thought to myself, "Game On, Bitch!", as I carefully exited the ‘Rover, avoiding soiling my brand new Ugg[TM] boots in the plentiful deposits of dog (I think?) poo. The locals, nor their canine friends, clearly did not cherish the beauty of their pristine break as much as I. I resolved, then and there, to leave this place cleaner than when I arrived. I secured Rell, my Labradoodle[TM], in her Cani-Kennel[TM] and sauntered towards the angry, scowling ruffian to see if we could begin a positive dialogue.

As I approached him, he seemed to take an almost offensive notice of me. His glare grew colder and menacing as I smiled and offered him my “Lance Armstrong braceleted[TM]” hand to shake. A gesture he did not accept. “Waves are totally sick today…yah, mon” I said, squatting down VC stylee. He looked down at me like a bug, and turned away. Unaffected by his negative energy, I stand, pulling off my Gargoyle[TM] wraparound SG’s and offer up "Sure is, like, so much better than being in the office, huh bruddah?" I looked at him. He silently stood there, unresponsive and aloof, leaning on his car, staring at the ocean, smoking what appeared to be a hand rolled cigarette[TM] with an unusual pungent odor. Did this dude even speak English? I began to wonder.

I had noticed several cig butts lying about on the ground around where we were stood. I recalled having seen an empty Folgers[TM] coffee can lying on the other side of my vehicle. Without even trying to explain my plan, I went back, picked up the can, put a couple handfuls of sand in it and returned to where I had stood earlier, next to the grizzled local that had yet to warm to my presence. It was quite a shock, but upon offering him the butt can to use and even after I took the time to pick up all the other butts and deposit them into the can, that he stubbed his smoke out and poured the contents, butts and all, on top of my head…completely dirtying my Oregon Surf Page[TM] beanie. What a jerk!

The sand, ashes and last burning embers filtered their way down the back of my Quicksilver[TM] hoodie, coming dangerously close to penetrating the waistband of my favorite vintage corduroy Ocean Pacific[TM] pants. My first instinct was to unleash upon him the ferocity of my limited, but effective, Tae Bo[TM] martial arts skills mastered by having witnessed countless pay per view UFC[TM] matches at my Tri Delta[TM] frat house. Had the debris marred my unsullied Uggs[TM], I surely would have. Instead, I silently headed back to my ‘Rover, selected the appropriate board (for the reeling left point-break conditions) from my Da Kine[TM] board bag off my Thule[TM] rack-mounted (fins back) mobile quiver, and suited up in my neon 6-5-4 to let my surfing do the talking.

Instinctively, I kept my head high and back arched as I jogged across the cobbled shoreline, skillfully avoiding pointy rocks, medical wastes and amoebic, rotting jellyfish. I only slipped once or twice. My bearded antagonist, whose regular visits and mastery of the break apparently entitled him to local status (Why hadn't I seen him the 2 times I'd been here?), acknowledged another unkempt individual briefly. Was uber-loc even there to surf? I now wondered why the old kook was looking south across the rock strewn shore. I followed his gaze over to an enormous driftwood log that had scrawled across it “IF YOU DON’T LIVE HERE DON’T SURF HERE”. Nice use of punctuation, I laughed to myself.

I snapped on the hood of my brand new, never before worn, custom colored, fuchsia & mauve wintersuit, a brand new state of the art Body Love[TM], which upon the back of were solar panels that heated during sessions, it’s raised Sunshield[TM] bumps made others laugh and had earned me the unfortunate nickname of “Wart”, but those trad losers simply hadn’t jumped into the world of nanotech like I had, their loss. I noticed that four other beater cars had pulled up and parked in the graveled lot. The drivers exited their vehicles, all of them seemed to know the bearded guy pretty well, handing him Coors Light [TM], sharing laughs and more cheap hand rolled cigarettes while looking in my direction. Their apparent envy of me was pathetic and obvious. I was amazed; here they were, drinking domestic beer early in the morning while others are just having their first Starbucks[TM] Latte! I realized that they must all be unemployed and so depressed that they can't do anything but drink and pop Zoloft[TM]. How sad.

Pulling on my Hurley[TM] boardshorts and my neon pink Reef[TM] rashguard over my wetsuit, I grab my brand new underground Surftech[TM] custom longboard with Protek skegs[TM] with an orange resin swirl, I realize that I hadn’t brought any SexWax[TM] with me. Bogus! So I walk over to the group of men drinking beer and laughing, and politely ask if I can borrow some wax and, hopefully, some base coat. No one responds, so I ask again. It seems that they don't even hear me, so I ask again. After about the fifth time I mention that I need to borrow some wax one of the guys walks over to my board. I wonder if he is going to wax my board for me or what. Instead, he picks it up and throws it onto the rocks.

Rather than letting this ruin my stoke, I stealthily slip my electronic key fob inside the bumper. I, of course, knew that this was the safe thing to do as only bro's knew of this hiding place, and no bro had ever divulged this to dirtbags who ripped off cars. I walked calmly over to my rock-tossed board, checked it for dings and tucked it away under my arm. Luckily, the LB Nose-Guard[TM] had prevented any serious damage. The longboard under my arm was a knockoff of a legendary surfer from the '70s, Whitenose Kauffman. Whitey was a notorious North Shore haole/local, who inflicted random judgments on visitors to the islands based largely upon the hangover he woke up with each day! After a few stints in Betty Ford[TM] rehab, he reformed himself. Then, after a niche autobiography that exposed the drug, alcohol and sexual appetites of the surfing elite, he had quickly relocated to the mainland. His label was now guest-shaped in the Cascade foothills and brought in steady and lucrative cash that was a great way to show the IRS[TM] his legitimate side...

Launching into the roiling shorebreak, I paddled towards the horizon filled with pride and enthusiasm. Although forced repeatedly to ditch my board as the sets roll through, I am only energized by these 3 foot walls of pure adrenaline and terror. Feeling very Johnny Utah[TM], I glanced back to witness some of the locals up close as I tried to reel in my tombstoning stick. Unfortunately, I cannot hear their support or advice that they are calling out to me because of my ear plugs and the Gath[TM] helmet w/ MP3 player that I am wearing. The Gath[TM] comes in handy as I am ragdolled across the cobbles within 10 yards of the shore. Only my Lost[TM] kook cord saves the day.

After several necessary and unavoidable board ditches and near death experiences I finally scratch over the top of the outside sets and work my way out to the line up. I set myself up, scanning for the next death bomb to roll through. I sense that some of the less skilled wave riders are upset because I've "cut in line", but they've already caught several and I spent much of my morning just trying to get out here. I hoot loudly as an all-black clad rider drops in on a wave I barely miss. As I struggle to reach the shoulder of the next wave, another surfer almost hits me! If I didn’t know better I would almost wonder if it hadn’t been on purpose. As they paddle back out their muffled shouts seem to indicate displeasure. Oh well, I'm sure once they have a chance to witness my finesse and skill they'll understand. Ooops! I fell on that first wave, but no worries, I'll just set up for the next one.

One of the other bros is paddling up to me. He probably wants to give me a bit of friendly advice; unnecessary, but appreciated. Unfortunately, due to the helmet with MP3 player I cannot hear him. “Wait! What are you doing? What are you doing? Stop that! That hurts! Stop it! Stop it!” Suddenly, the Spex[tm] I was wearing are wrapped around my neck and the repetitive dunking made it difficult for the clearly agitated and selfish local to understand my explanations. Finally, the water bully let me go and paddled toward the biggest wave of the day, leaving me in the impact zone and about to meet the rocks only 30 feet away. As it crashed powerfully, the wave held me under for what seemed an eternity. The waves just keep coming and coming, pounding and pounding. After resurfacing only to be met with another approaching wave, I admit, I began to panic. I try to relax and follow the advice from my longboard start up book, but I can't. Each time I surface I have to spit more saltwater out of my mouth. I'm beginning to choke. I'm flail about, struggling mightily. Why won't anybody help me? Fortunately my prowess as a waterman pulled me through.

Surfacing, I confidently claimed the final set wave with a raised fist and a "Wooohooo" hoot. The gaggle of semi-intoxicated, ragamuffin locals looked on. Barely audible over the Starbucks (TM) Jack Johnson mix on my MP3 player were the cheers and whistles of said locals. The water was peppered with large splashes and odd “kerpluncks” all about me, strange marine phenomenon to be sure! After adjusting my helmet and scrambling back atop my prized “LB”. I noticed my nemesis, the bearded local, pointing in my direction and palming a coconut sized cobble. Obviously, I had broken the “locals only” barrier and proven myself in these perilous conditions. Yet I wondered what the stone symbolized? Perhaps, as only those few dedicated waterman such as myself, that have conquered and dominated an ocean so fierce, battling 5 to 6 foot conditions, massive 2 foot walls of whitewater, can understand the rush, exhilaration and the addiction that is the way of the surfer. It is at that moment... not a foot away, that I saw the rock.

The near miss and the depth charge “plunk” alarm me, as I recognize the local’s true intent. The bearded one’s rock is followed by veritable hail of cobbles as I frantically paddle up the point out of range, cheered only by my fellow watermen’s muffled encouragement and fist shaking. Sitting up, I notice that I am being swept further and further up the point. Despite my mighty efforts, I cannot make any progress against Neptune’s mighty pull. Exhausted, I surrender myself to my fate.

It's only then that I remembered the mini cell phone I have built into the helmet. Thank God my life partner programmed the Coast Guard’s[TM] phone number into it. After connecting to the closest station via SatPhone[TM], I'm able to give them my exact coordinates because of my mini GPS[TM] device. They're there in a few minutes, and a cage is lowered down to me and I crawl into it. I'm ordered to detach myself from my board. I do so only because I am now in the safety of the Coast Guard and no longer need to clinch on to the board for life. As I am hoisted from the water’s surface, I notice a young kid wade into the water and retrieve my board, without even getting his shorts wet.

I adjusted my Spex[TM] and thought how this episode would solidly put me in tight with the locals, especially “Beardman”. I couldn’t wait to get back to shore, get my board from that kid and get back out there with my buds. After Channel 8[TM] was done with my interview…I had wisely called the spot "the Point"[TM], to keep kooks away…I looked forward to the awe and respect I knew awaited me!

This near-death experience reminded me of how fortunate I am. Now, not only am I a full-fledged, core local with an amazingly full Machado[TM]-like head of hair and Laird[TM]-like chiseled jaw, but my celebrity status due to numerous local news interviews and an upcoming appearance on Good Day Oregon[TM] has had a serious impact on my status in "The Pearl”[TM]. I can no longer peruse the cheese rotunda at Whole Foods[TM] without being recognized. The doorman at our loft is besieged by autograph seekers. My agent is looking into some endorsement deals. Alec (my L.P.) and I have worked through our "issues" and have rekindled what we had before Jonathon’s tragedy. Jonathon was killed in a freak accident in the workplace. While creating an eleven foot end aisle display masterpiece, using only napkin rings and mimosa glasses at Crate & Barrel[TM], he erroneously elbowed one of the glasses and the entire structure collapsed, killing him instantly. But I digress. I can't wait to get back out to the “Point”, to retrieve my surfboard from the kind young man who so valiantly rescued it from the victory at sea conditions on that fateful day and to share a round of expensive microbrews with my new found friends. Maybe they'll fill me in on the secret handshake and provide me with a snappy nickname.

My return to the coast was a difficult one to say the least. My Rangerover[TM] and quiv had mysteriously disappeared and the local police seem curiously disinterested. However, after spending my last three dollars (I found them in my mom's "sock" drawer) at McDonalds[TM] proved to be fruitful. I ran into the handsome young bloke that rescued my long-lost board and he told me it was at his friend’s house... then walked away…I can’t understand why he didn’t give me directions? I hope I can find his friend soon, as my parents are leaving town and making me stay with Grandma in Minnesota for a few weeks…something about severed elk heads on the porch?

The point is reeling; the CG is in full effect. Soon as I get my board I am gonna pull into some sick waves. All my buddies in Burns can’t wait for the pics! Lates!

 

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Friday, January 12, 2007

Back In The day

0 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 9:39 PM


NE WIND 5 TO 10 KT.
WIND WAVES 2 FT.
NW SWELL 8 FT AT18 SECONDS.

I was out the door before light today and home late so this was tonight's forecast...but it seems about right.

8 foot at 18 seconds...that might explain the head and a half hollow waves coming through on the central coast today...it was solid, big and fun...and way outside!

Unfortunately, I fiddled and faddled...and drove and checked...and drove and checked some more...before finding good waves...and they were very good...I just didn't get my fill.

It looks solid all weekend and into next week...it's a holiday weekend so the crowds should be on it...but it's an Oregon crowd so it shouldn't be too bad.

Martin Luther Don't Surf!

 

Thursday, January 11, 2007

Surfocratic Oath

1 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 7:35 AM


N WIND 15 TO 20 KT...BECOMING NE.
WIND WAVES 4 FT.
NW SWELL 12 FT AT 11 SECONDS.
~
Snowing at the beach...the pic looks like a wave in Maine or Nova Scotia, not Oregon! It also looks surfable...and cold in and out of the water.
~
I was reading a message in which someone referred to "phony hippocrates"...meaning hypocrits...which spawned the following...feel free to offer improvements:
~
The Surfocratic Oath
~
I swear by Neptune the Father and Poseidon, and Mermaids, and Sirens, and any other sea gods and goddesses (major or minor) I may have forgotten to mention, that, according to my ability and balance, I will keep this Oath and keep stoked.
~
To reckon those who assisted me in this Art, Skill, Passion or whatever surfing is, as equally dear to me as my parents and kin, to share my secret spots with them, and to talk story as required; to look upon their offspring in the same footing as my own brothers, and to teach them this joyfully futile activity, if they shall wish to master it, without fee or expectation; and that by paddle, popup, and wipeout, I will impart knowledge of the Art to my own children, and those of my teachers, and to lonely disciples bound by stoke and oath according to the law of surfing, but to none others.
~
I will follow that system of regimen which, according to my ability and sack, I consider for the benefit of grommets, and abstain from whatever is kookish and lame. I will give no sage advice to strangers if asked, nor offer such local counsel as might offend; and in like manner I will not give to the true seeker discouragement to the art.
~
With flow and with glide and in trim I will pass my life and practice into Art. I will not cut off those under the lip, but will leave this to be done by aggro practitioners of such work... snakes.
~
Into whatever tubes I may enter, I will go into them for the benefit of the soul, and will abstain from voluntary acts of hopping and waggling; and, further, from the abuse and cursing of seeming uncooperative waves or swells, and wonton damage or destruction of beaches and headlands.
~
Whatever, in connection with my oceanic service, or not in connection with it, I see or hear or feel, in the life and act of surfing, which ought not to be spoken of abroad, I will not divulge, as reckoning that all such should be kept secret.
~
While I continue to keep this Oath unviolated, may it be granted to me to enjoy the ride and the practice of the art, respected by few men, in all times. But should I trespass and violate this Oath, may the reverse be my lot.

 

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Wednesday, January 10, 2007

Definition of a Fish

6 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 7:42 AM


NW WIND 20 TO 25 KT WITH GUSTS TO 30 KT.
WIND WAVES 6 FT.
W SWELL 13 TO 15 FT AT 11 SECONDS.

A Fish is a Fish is a Fish!



Twin Keels, preferably marine ply.
Straight railed.
Wide nosed.
Big swallow.
Low rocker.
Touch of roll.
Touch of concave.
Designed for real waves not real slop.
Anything more/anything less than two keels and it is not a Fish.
Anyone advertising a Fish when it's NOT is false to the roots and soul of surfing.

The Fish is essentially a kneeboard. It thrives on low centre of gravity.
The more squat the surfer in a critical turn at speed, the greater the response.
The more rail in the water, the better the projection.
The more The Fish is built to the surfer's power to weight ratio, the better to ride any size.
Ride it the right way on the right wave and the surfing experience explodes.
The 'HyndFish' is designed for real surf...JBay, Burleigh, solid Bells: down the line set ups where entry speed, delay and release, high line driving and fade can be absolutely defined.


The 4oz model is built for a touch more response though shorter lifespan.
The 6oz model is built for greater momentum and durability.
For mine, the standard 70kg surfer can ride a 5'5" Fish at 6 foot point surf no sweat as long as the basics of low centre of gravity surfing are respected.
With the right gab rail bottom turn, body leaning forward, the surfer can do just about anything in setting up the perfect ride on the perfect wave.

The Fish is not to be surfed off the back foot.
Surf it from the front and let the keels do the rest.
And remember its origins...kneeboarding...low to the rail.
The Fish has its variations but anything too much and it morphs into twinny or thruster.
The micro wing comes into play as the surfer opts for more everyday conditions.
It allows a more sudden break in flow, particularly in the hook.

Jed Done from Bushrat builds the 'HyndFish' from his country shack on the NSW South Coast.
There isn't a board builder more tuned to the roots and soul of surfing.
I'm stoked to be associated with such a core craftsman.

Derek Hynd

ps Buy hand crafted boards. Support true surfing. Say no to imports.

 

Tuesday, January 09, 2007

Central Coast

1 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 6:44 PM


S WIND 30 TO 35 KT...VEERING TO SW IN THE AFTERNOON.
GUSTS UP TO 40 KT.
COMBINED SEAS 15 FT DOMINANT PERIOD 13 SECONDS.

Doesn't look half bad...
End of the week could clean up but be cold, cold, cold!

 

Thursday, January 04, 2007

Wild West

1 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 6:35 AM


W WIND 20 TO 30 KT.
WIND WAVES 6 FT.
W SWELL 15 FT AT 15 SECONDS.

West Swell...
West Winds...
Wind Waves...
Outta the West...

I'm out for a few days...

Doesn't look like I'll be missing much...
Aside from 20 foot surf...
Whipped into a froth...
From howling gales...

Enjoy.

 

Wednesday, January 03, 2007

Wanting

0 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 7:28 AM


SW WIND 15 TO 20 KT.
WIND WAVES 4 FT.
W SWELL 15 FT AT 13 SECONDS.

Damned if you do...
Damned if you don't...

Sometimes when the surf's really big...
I wish it was smaller...
Sometimes when the surf is small...
I wish it was bigger...

When it's just right...
I don't wish at all.

 

Tuesday, January 02, 2007

Macker

3 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 7:22 AM


~photo by covephoto LLC

S WIND 30 TO 35 KT...WITH GUSTS TO 45 KT THIS AFTERNOON.
COMBINED SEAS 14 FT...BUILDING TO 19 FT THIS AFTERNOON.
DOMINANT PERIOD OF 10 SECONDS.

With the last 5 days dedicated to tracking all the Nelscott contest fallout I haven't even posted a report about going surfing! It's been a rough month...only 2 go outs in 2 months. Also, Happy New Surf Year to everyone who reads this blog.

Here's the report from last Thursday (that was in 2006)...

There is no Surf in Oregon...

Even so, I paddled out today after a too long forced hiatus due to responsibility, alcohol, injury, more alcohol, work, relationships, some more alcohol, inertia, hubris and finally alot of alcohol...

What did I find?

That if you're 45 and surf 2 times in 2 months you had damn well better do something other than consume alcohol and surf the interweb...my wetsuit was tight, I was winded hiking downhill and I was hurting bad on the paddles out...

That said...despite the state's lack of surfable waves...I saw a window and defenestrated myself into it...got in about 1pm, pretty low tide, semi-disorganized and bumpy on the inside...but there were a few bumps lining up on the outside...

Creeks run through it.

Since I can no longer in good conscience name even the most obvious of location due to my vow of silence and vagueness...the above statement must suffice...and I surfed the middle creek...there were only 2 other guys out nearby...one of them paddled out and set up uncomfortably close...I contemplated fighting him but as a liberal and pacifist I sublimated these primal emotions and merely vibed him with unsmiling glances and no "Howzit goings" or "S'ups"...he got the message and gave me enough room to work with...on his first takeoff, he blew it...a perfect head high wedge too...I was ready to snake him at will and without mercy but he pulled into the next wave without error so I grudgingly permitted him to surf unmolested...

Sunshine, glass and windless.

Alright there was a little wind but it was mild...the glare was intense though and the chest to head high waves were pretty fun and consistent, although there was a tendency for fun looking peaks to tease you into chasing them futilely...

You always remember the one that got away.

There was brief period about an hour in where the swell, bars and angle all had a harmonic convergence...peaks lined up for short down the line runs and even a couple little throw overs...saw a bump on the horizon that corresponded with the south indicator and paddled a bit further out to await the set wave...a bit too far out unfortunately...as I scrambled into position for my wave of the day...I turned and paddled hard for a lined up head high left...only to have it pass under me and break perfectly down the line...fortunately there were plenty of other fun waves coming through...but none that matched that one...

Here I sit with aching back.

Sunburned face, bloodshot eyes, muddy shoes, sore neck and tired arms...in other words, satisfied...for now.
~doc

I also got called out for saying it was head high...I admit I may have exaggerated slightly and it doesn't come close (or even halfway) to the 6 foot Hawaiian wave being surfed on the central coast by holddown pictured above...that wave is a macker!

 

Monday, January 01, 2007

Nelscott Part 5

0 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 10:07 AM


S WIND 25 KT WITH OCCASIONAL GUSTS TO 35 KT.
WIND WAVES 6 FT.
SW SWELL 8 FT AT 11 SECONDS.

This is the final installment on the Nelscott debate/fiasco before it devolved into a name calling insult fest on the OSP...

I suppose I may as well go on record here with my take on this whole mess...

Clearly there is much more to the whole sordid affair than meets the eye. Had the organizers taken steps to include some local surfers perhaps some problems may have been avoided. It appears that Oregon riders were actively prevented from participating and that their lack of participation was characterized as their choice or the organizers protecting them from the dangers of their own wave.

The sheer commercial nature of the Nelscott contest...from promotion to the addition of a new tow surf shop in LC...turns me off. I don't really have a problem with someone making money per se...but wonder who is going to buy the product? Maybe I'll be able to buy some Nelscott Surf Aftershave soon.I guess we'll see.

I certainly hope that we don't see a sudden influx of Waverunners towing up and down Oregon's "mysto" cloudbreaks and paddle spots. I also worry about the end result which would probably be unqualified and inexperienced individuals getting in way over their heads.

Finally, as a dirty, dirty California trannie...I can vouch that Oregon surfers are not generally hillbillies, toothless or inbred...regardless of whether they live in a coastal town or in the valley. And characterizations of such by Californians (regardless of their surf world status) serves no purpose other than to perpetuate the tribal localism of spot specific surf tribes.

My final comment is the simple reminder...There is no Surf in Oregon.

Nelscott 5

For all of you guys who feel like bitching and moaning about the lack of Oregon local surfers in the 2006 Nelscott Contest: for your information, all of the experienced local teams were invited, but all but one team declined to participate for reasons of their own. John Forse deserves all of our respect for being a great guy, and a person who genuinely cares about his local community. He also recognizes, as do many of the surfers who have ridden Nelscott, that it is a tow-in spot only. Sure, you can paddle into it, but you might catch one wave every two hours if you're lucky, have to negotiate an enormous beachbreak with no channels before you even start the half-mile paddle to the reef, an let's not even go into the shark factor. How about we stop whining about the contest and appreciate it for what it is - a damn cool event to watch. And for those of you who are worried about the hundreds of invading surfers who might drive up from California on the next swell, cool your jets - we've got plenty of seldom-ridden reefs of our own to explore before making the 12-hour drive.
~willhenry

Good, ‘cuz we don’t want you contaminating our water with your governator asses.
~hess

Oh Hess, I guess I should expect such an immature response from your small redneck brain. Like I said, don't worry, we aren't planning an invasion any time soon - and even if we were, idiots like you wouldn't keep us from coming. Apparently you have nothing better to do than to sit at your computer and whine when the point isn't working and there's no one to throw rocks at.
~willhenry

Who is the one local team that DID participate Will?
~gaz

Sucker punching surfers in and out of the water isn’t good for the community. Before you praise the man why don’t you take time to get to know him.
But hey, to each their own.
~brd

Will, this makes me angry. I know who you are and your work. For a journalist (and maybe I'll excuse you because you're a photo journalist), you're incredibly uninformed. If you're interested in who JF is, go take a look at his police record and talk to the community of surfers up and down the coast. Also, ask him about the bribery and extortion that went along with this contest. Ask him why he wouldn't let JG partner with someone of his choice because of his involvement with the APT-- You're regurgitating JF's talking points and you're seeing the best side of him BECAUSE you are the press. I did too when I--....but if you look at how he actually treats the people in his community and you count how many people have been hit in the face by him and that sponsors are pulling out because of his behavior and and and....then let's get back to the bribery, the extortion, the 'hey, for the right price Lopez can be in it', etc. etc.

For you to suggest that we're whiners and don't understand our own break is the typical California arrogance we can't stand up here. Choke on a shark taco bro. For you to think, for one moment that you have a better perspective on this is unreal and tragic. I've been fucking researching this for months before it happened. C'mon man, do some damn journo work, don't be convinced by the free hotel room and meal tickets. I was objective going into it--- and truth is truth--

Your post is so incredibly lame. Do you have any idea who you're talking to on this board? NO. Shoot Drew an email man, he knows all about it....and if you need further reading, I'll be happy to send you transcripts of the countless interviews I've done on the subject. Man, I respect your work and who you are, but don't open your mouth when you don't know what you're talking about.

Here's my favorite backfired talking point--

"All the locals were invited, they CHOSE not to be in it"

Juxtaposed with--

"It's a safety issue, that's why the locals aren't in it. These waves are incredibly dangerous. This is a professional contest."
~gills

Pretty typical Cali responses further illustrate that Mr. Save the Waves, who supports a tow contest, has no idea what he's talking about. Yeah were all rednecks up here and we only have only one wave. I know it sucks up here man.

Pretty funny he even took the time to post on this stupid site. Guess like us all here, he’s got nothing better to do.
~dub

 

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