SW WIND 15 TO 20 KT WITH GUSTS TO 25 KT. WIND WAVES 4 FT. W SWELL 4 FT AT 8 SECONDS.
Hit up the central coast yesterday in hopes of scoring a few waves...instead it was like my own personal Oregon version of Sean Collins' Goodwill Tour...in other words, no waves for me...windblown, messy and onshore...
Hey y'all...I don't know about you...but this whole Surfline Goodwill Tour has go me so worked up I have to go on vacation...I'm gonna go take over a river bank in central Oregon and deny access to all comers until I raise $20k to build a 20' x 20' cinder block bunker...
Oh well, that's pretty mean spirited...
I'll see you back on Monday...I'm sure corporate surf industry will have mended it's ways by then.
*Update: The threads at Surfer forum have been deleted...here's a nice rock tosser vid from YouTube...
S WIND 15 TO 20 KT WITH GUSTS TO 25 KT. WIND WAVES 4 FT. W SWELL 5 FT AT 9 SECONDS.
This is the wave that Surfline paid the town of Barra de la Cruz in Southern Mexico $20,000 to hold their own private wave party for 5 days. If you aren't invited you aren't allowed to surf the wave...and you weren't invited unless you are a surf VIP or a selected local...unsure of the exact invite parameters...
There's a whole slew of opinions on this and the list of sponsors, advocates and critics is large...and I presume will continue to grow...
Surfline, Surfer Mag forum, Niceness, 70 Percent all present and provide commentary...
*Update...the Surfer Mag forum thread was deleted...of course, the content has been reposted and I updated the link. ~doc
It all seems pretty lame and unsavory to me...I'm surprised that some people are involved with an event that smacks of such exclusion and is seemingly self-serving despite the $20k Surfline, Quiksilver and friends were able to pony up between them...generous.
SW WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 5 FT AT 9 SECONDS...DROPPING TO W SWELL 4 FT AT 8 SECONDS.
Here's a comment from yesterday:
Hi Doc,
I am starting a web site soon called wwww.surfinoregon.com, and I hope me and my friends will be able to publish articles as good as you do on your blog.
Manu
I don't know if Manu's for real...but hey Manu, this blog kind of is a web site called "Surf In Oregon"...so here's a thought: Why don't you start a website with a different name?
SW WIND 15 TO 20 KT WITH A FEW GUSTS TO 25 KT EARLY. WINDS EASE TO 10 TO 15 KT BY AFTERNOON. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 5 FTAT 9 SECONDS. DROPPING TO W SWELL 4 FT AT 9 SECONDS.
Sometimes I wonder what people are thinking...
W WIND 5 KT...BECOMING S 15 KT BY EARLY AFTERNOON. WIND WAVES 2 FT. SW SWELL 3 FT AT 14 SECONDS... BUILDING TO W 6 FT AT 9 SECONDS.
NW WIND 15 KT WITH GUSTS TO 20 KT. FEW GUSTS TO 25 KT SOUTH OF TILLAMOOK IN THE AFTERNOON. WIND WAVES 2 FT. NW SWELL 4 FT AT 9 SECONDS.
I'm glad Oregon doesn't ticket you for surfing off jetties!
NW WIND 10 TO 20 KT. WIND WAVES 3 FT. W SWELL 5 FT AT 6 SECONDS. CHANCE OF SHOWERS...SWINGING TO NW SWELL 6 FT AT 6 SECONDS.
N WIND 10 TO 15 KT...RISING TO 15 TO 20 KT IN THE AFTERNOON. WIND WAVES 2 FT...BUILDING TO 4 FT IN THE AFTERNOON. W SWELL 5 FT AT 8 SECONDS.Swung by Brohamton at full flood tide...
Some warbly, weak waves were coming in...
Headed north...
Slack flags on poles gave some hope...
Spot #1 was nothing doing, too much water still...
Opted for the wind protection...
Probably not the best choice...
But still caught lots of swells...
They were swells because alot of the time they never broke...
Paddled up and down looking for a sweet spot...
Never found one though...
Did find alot of sideshore trenches...
A turbulent, dark and fishy spot...
And a offshore green glowing area that provided the best wave of the day...
An outside peak that connected to the inside...
For my last wave of the day...
And a nap on a driftwood log in the sun...
All in all, not a bad afternoon of crappy waves.
N WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 6 FT AT 10 SECONDS...DROPPING TO W SWELL 5 FT AT 9 SECONDS.
PARABOLIC RAILS allow the board to dynamically climb or slide up or down the face of the wave. These parabolic rails are similar to those of the modern high performance skis.
A surfboard with parabolic rails generally is a board with a narrowed waist/hip and features a wider nose and tail area (interchangeable in a sense...front is back, back is front). The peanut outline waist lets the rider turn utilizing the rail itself and eliminates the skeg as a turning pivot. Like a snowboard or a skateboard, the nose and tail of the board are turned up/kicked at each end, which allows spinners and forward/backward rideability that isn't achievable with conventional surfboards. The parabolized surfboard often includes channels in the underside, this helps the board's water traction and provides increased turning control.
S WIND 5 TO 10 KT...BECOMING SW 10 TO 15 KT IN THE AFTERNOON. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 8 FT AT 10 SECONDS...DROPPING TO W SWELL 6 FT AT 7 SECONDS.
Duke Kahanamoku was born in 1890 and grew up in the middle of all this. As a native Hawaiian, Duke was likely right at home surfing in a loin cloth and probably surfed starkers when the mood hit him, and if people weren’t around. But by 1912, Duke was 22-years-old and one of the fastest swimmers in the world. He traveled through America and across the Atlantic to compete in the Olympic Games in Sweden and caused a big sensation. At the 1912 Olympics, Duke swam in a suit that was built for speed. This was a one-piece suit (far from a modern Speedo), but it was skin-tight, made of who knows what and it helped him win the Gold medal and become the toast of the Olympic Games, along with a fellow minority, the native American athlete Jim Thorpe.
By the 20s, Jantzen was the market leader in men’s swim suits. Meanwhile, Duke Kahanamoku was continuing to kick the world’s okole in the pool. At the 1920 Olympics in Antwerp, Duke won Gold in the 100 yard freestyle and in the relay. At Paris in 1924, Duke took a silver in the 100 yard freestyle, with the gold going to Johnny Weissmuller and the bronze to Duke’s brother Sam. Duke and Weissmuller became fast friends, and when Weissmuller came to Hawaii, Duke took him surfing.
W WIND 5 TO 10 KT...BECOMING NW 10 TO 15 KT IN THE AFTERNOON. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 11 TO 13 FT AT 13 SECONDS...SUBSIDING TO 11 FT AT 13 SECONDS IN THE AFTERNOON...DROPPING TO W SWELL 9 TO 10 FT AT 11 SECONDS.
I e-mailed Mick from Safe to Sea about posting this shot from the Musica Surfica event he's been involved with during the last month or two...when I saw this shot, it reminded me of a combo of Hot Curl surfing and the "Bully Style" of surfing of the great Eddie Aikau...and the fact that the surfer was riding about as deeply retro a board as possible just got me stoked and I had to ask his permission to share it with those unfortunate enough not to know about his blog.
Regarding the shot..it is from the documentary of the Musica Surfica event held on King Island, (off Tasmania) which was organized by Derek Hynd and Richard Tognetti of the Australian Chamber Orchestra. From Mr. Tognetti's blog he describes the event as:In a very pistacchio sized nutshell, Musica Surfica comes out of my friend Derek Hynd dreaming with me about exploring the intersection of perceived high-brow: classical music, and grass roots: surf culture. It is involving the highly experimental surf craft of finless boards; some designs dating back 1000 years, whilst others are emerging frontiers; combined with an exploration of our music, some extant and other music being especially written. We are placing all of this in stunningly different contexts (schools, King Island, East coast Oz, steps of Sydney Opera House? etc); hoping for an explosive and provocative mix of cultures.
The surfer is Sage Joske. The board a parabolic railed paulownia alaia (the source of an entirely new thread or ten!) shaped by Tom Wegener. Mick of Safe to Sea is directing the documentary and about to start editing. The shot itself is a still from the SuperHD video shot by Director of Photography Tony Brennan. And I had to make a new graphic button for Mick's blog!
W WIND 10 TO 15 KT. GUSTS TO 20 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 11 FT AT 9 SECONDS. BUILDING TO W SWELL 13 FT AT 11 SECONDS.
Checked on this wave last week breaking off a central coast river mouth. It was only about 5 foot...but being solo, under a howling SW and the jagged, rocky shoreline made me opt for more forgiving shores.
NW WIND 10 TO 15 KT...CHANGING TO W IN THE EVENING. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 4 FT AT 10 SECONDS. BUILDING TO W SWELL 5 FT AT 10 SECONDS.
So...gone all week...even got a couple unexpected solo surfs in...only to reenter surfilization and discover that JP of Surfy Surfy has listed Surf In Oregon, Sissyfish and a host of other other blog sites in the TSJ...pretty cool...although I was surprised by the lack of inclusion of niceness...which in my opinion is still the best of the bunch...and which, incidentally, was the inspiration for starting SIO...in any case, it'll be interesting to see the result of such public exposure...the anon comment line could really heat up...
Local Reports (for the past week):
On Tuesday I escaped to check the south side of a prominent central coast headland...the waves looked pretty fun and small enough to paddle up the gut towards a left that was working rather than ride the rip out and surf mushy rights. I only had a couple hour window so got in and picked off a handful of bigger than expected waves...the tide was pretty low and as I got out talked with a razor clammer who had just limited out who also surfed and discussed some recent Orca sightings, GW and whale episodes and general surf stuff...
On Wednesday, I reconned south to Yachats but a stiff SW wind resulted in finding shelter in the back of my wagon with cold beer and a fertile imagination of mindsurfing the rocky central coast shore where head high wave were imploding on shallow rock reefs. Later, headed out onto a south jetty where I was pelted by sideways rain that ended suddenly and gave way to sun, calm and a fun chest high left that started working beautifully and made me wish I had brought my board. A fisherman walking in off the jetty held his catch as he made his way back to his truck...a 20 pound Ling Cod...at about $8 a pound, what's that? At a least a $100 fish.
On Thursday, wrapped up the campsite, loaded up gear and drove north out of the wind and rain towards the sun and calm winds...found the sun, but not the calm...hard onshores blew the waves pretty flat but suited up anyhow to get wet and assess the level of poorness...it was a pretty low level...but caught a few little mushballs and drank a few beers with friends and ran into the razor clammer again...this time he was catching waves...well, they were the same sloppy bumps I had ridden earlier and he reached his limit as quikly as I had...about an hour.
~doc
~photos from Coos County Historical Museum
