Some chest high waves that were lined up and going both ways...several ended in a knee deep shorepound...which if you weren't paying attention meant you ate sand...as one wave detonated on the beach I tried to escape but managed to fall off on the beach side and the board crushed into my thigh...I surfed for a couple hours after but am seriously limping now...this was after my friend's board got away from him and beelined for my head...I was torn...protect my body?...or protect the Frye...I ducked and covered...the board went directly over my head...hit me in the back and completely missed my board...whew!
N WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. NW SWELL 6 FT AT 8 SECONDS.
I suppose I could go on and on about the common misconception (in my opinion) that the act of speaking of surfing...whether in person or on the interweb...is the main culprit in it's increase in popularity in recent years.
Surfing is pretty seductive in appearance. The reality, at least outside of fair weather climes, is somewhat less attractive. This isn't to say there won't be the select few that get the hook set and crowd the lineups in years to come.
I'm as closed mouth as any when it comes to specific hard earned info...be it through personal experience or expertly applied torture induced confession, but the mindset that the very speaking of the word is the problem is mind boggling.
In any case, I've surfed empty waves in the 60's, 70's, 80's, 90's and in the 20th century too. Don't get me wrong...I'm not talking Sunset, Rincon, Superbank, or some other known perfecto spot that's been out since time immemorial. I'm saying popular spots are popular for a reason...but if you want to surf alone, you can.
And if you're wily you can still surf those popular spots on occasion all by your lonesome..in the mean time, I need to e-mail Sean Collins about a sweet sandbar I found on the central Oregon coast...oh wait, it's gone.
N WIND 5 TO 10 KT WITH GUSTS TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. NW SWELL 6 FT AT 7 SECONDS.
N WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. NW SWELL 7 FT AT 8 SECONDS...DROPPING TO 5 FT AT 8.
N WIND 15 TO 20 KT...WITH GUSTS TO 25 KT IN THE AFTERNOON. WIND WAVES 4 FT. NW SWELL 6 FT AT 9 SECONDS.
NW WIND 10 TO 15 KT WITH GUSTS TO 20 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. NW SWELL 6 FT AT 9 SECONDS.
This spot?
I did...
After a 3 hour tour of the Central North coast...
It wasn't this good, but it was better than the 7 other spots I checked today...
Almost missed it too...
Pulled up to the pay station with the intent of passing on paying...
But it was manned...
I turned around to head to one last chance spot...
But as I came around a curve and looked down...
A wave rifled left below and was actually glassy...
Something I hadn't seen anywhere else today...
So I ponyed up the 3 bucks and took a look...
It was head high and smaller but there were some definite detonations...
That would get your attention if they caught you inside...
Picked off a few short, lumpy lefts before another guy paddled out...
There were a few that lined up on the inside but they were rare...
Mostly drops that mushed or closed out...
All in all, I was pretty pleased to even get any waves...
I thought I was gonna get shut out...
For the first time in a long time...
Instead, a couple hours in reasonably fun waves...
I'll take it.
NW WIND 10 TO 15 KT WITH GUSTS TO 20 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. NW SWELL 8 FT AT 11 SECONDS...EXCEPT SOUTH OF CASCADE HEAD W SWELL 5 FT AT 8 SECONDS EARLY.
~photo unknown
~photo by john brewer
W WIND 5 TO 10 KT. WIND WAVES 1 FOOT. NW SWELL 4 FT AT 7 SECONDS.
SW WIND 5 TO 10 KT. WIND WAVES 1 FOOT. NW SWELL 5 FT AT 10 SECONDS... SUBSIDING TO 3 FT AT 9 SECONDS.
Stoic
stoke(d)
