Surfing wasn’t built in a day...outta the way.

S WIND 20 TO 25 KT. WIND WAVES 6 FT. SW SWELL 17 FT AT 11 SECONDS...SUBSIDING TO 15 FT IN THE AFTERNOON.

Rough day for someone at Indian...
I guess anything is possible...
But I can't imagine getting in that position...
There are days I'll paddle out...
And days I'll drink on the beach...
Wonder what happened to the longboard?

SW WIND 5 TO 10 KT WITH GUSTS TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 12 FT AT 14 SECONDS.

Last session restored my faith...
There's no better spot in church...
Than sitting up front...
Waiting for God to come...
No offense to those...
Who wish to worship...
In a more traditional manner.

S WIND 15 TO 20 KT. WIND WAVES 3 FT. W SWELL 20 FT AT 14 SECONDS.
Hmmmm. 20 foot at 14 seconds...
As RV said...
"If I wasn't injured..."
S'posed to lay down...
Tomorrow & Wednesday...
Think I'll load the rig...
With an assortment...
And see if a west turn...
Happens.

SW WIND 15 TO 25 KT. WIND WAVES 5 FT. W SWELL 15 FT AT 15 SECONDS.

Trip in the offing...
Non-surf, lame...
No Board...
No Wetsuit...
No chance?
We'll see.

S WIND 30 TO 40 KT WITH GUSTS TO 50 KT. COMBINED SEAS 19 FT DOMINANT PERIOD 12 SECONDS.

You got folks surfing Alaias...
Rocking handplanes...
Surfing Bonzers, Quads...
Assymetricals, Simmon Twins...
Ponies and Eagles...
So much variety...
Not alot of boat surfers out there...
Sure you have to go straight...
Hey...
Duke went straight alot.

SE WIND 20 TO 25 KT...EXCEPT E NEARSHORE. WIND WAVES 5 FT. W SWELL FROM 8 FT NEAR SHORE TO 12 FT OVER THE OUTER WATERS.

This drawing was done by a friend of my daughter...
After a four day trip to the coast in which I was utterly shut out...
The wind, the wave, the foam and the froth were all crazy sheep...
On a separate note, hanging with Sooloo in a coastal dive post surf...
He asks a classic tavern old dude, hitched pants, suspenders, stash...
"So when's the rain gonna come?"...
Answer: "About 15 minutes"...
100% accuracy...
Crazy Sheep.

SE WIND 15 TO 20 KT. WIND WAVES 4 FT. W SWELL 6 FT AT 13 SECONDS.

I didn't have a bad day...
This guy did...
I have had some days like this...
I have seen some days like this...
You don't want days like this.