Monday, September 08, 2008
N WIND 20 TO 25 KT WITH GUSTS TO 30 KT EARLY. WIND WAVES 5 FT. NW SWELL 8 FT AT 8 SECONDS.
This isn't a shot of today's surf...
But it does bring back some memories...
As I was headed to the coast today...
I was musing that we don't get the hard offshores...
So prevalent as "Santa Anas" in So Cal...
And so common in the fall months...
Many Septembers & Octobers are deeply imprinted...
In my memory banks...
So I was nicely surprised to find some nice offshores...
Texturing and holding up lefts today...
Early I surfed some small waist high peelers...
And later surfed a beach dishing head high bombs...
Paddling over the top of a few...
I felt the familiar liquid needles raining down...
Swinging the board around into the wind...
Resulted in few near complete stalls...
In the face of the howling wind...
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3 comments:
You mean offshorties right?
Only 1/2 of the time...
And it wasn't blowing as hard in there.
Not that Shorties blows...
In that sense.
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