Turn On It, Tune Out, Drop In

S WIND 5 TO 10 KT. WIND WAVES 1 FOOT. W SWELL 6 FT AT 13 SECONDS.

What can I say?
Might as well have been...
No wind at all...
There wasn't.
That it threw a bit more?
It didn't...
Just big soft lines...
Swelling on the horizon...
Paddle in...
Sweep down the line...
Swing it back into the juice.
That I had more time?
Definitely...
Two hours?
Could have surfed four...
Or five, or six...
As I drove away...
In the dark...
I thought about it...
And wanted to park my car...
Aim the headlights on the peak...
Switch on the brights...
And surf into the night.