S WIND 20 TO 25 KT.
GUSTS TO 30 KT.
WIND WAVES 4 TO 7 FT.
SW SWELL 15 TO 17 FT AT 12 SECONDS.
Going through some old shots...
Came across this one...
Don't think I ever used it...
Maybe I did, can't recall...
I do recall the session tho...
Dead of winter...
Hiked out to a non-surf spot...
Well, rarely surfed anyhow...
It was pretty junky all morning...
So I left the boards in the car...
Just checking driftwood piles...
And snapping some pics...
When lo and behold...
A chest high left comes through...
And one behind it...
And another and another...
After 15 minutes I'd had enough...
Quick rock scramble back to the rig...
Suit up, scramble back up the spit...
Pick my way out through the rocks inside...
And surf all by my lonesome for about 2 hours...
The left was only solid about an hour...
But enough sneaking through for the next...
To keep me happy...
Finally paddled in...
Left was gone...
Beach still empty.
2 comments:
Looks kinda "mushy" Doc.
H
rough waves need tough boards
what more should be said looks like this is one poetic post.
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