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Friday, November 28, 2008

Maybe? Maybe? No.

4 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 10:15 AM

~photo by kaser one at Daily Bread

S WIND 15 TO 20 KT. GUSTS TO 25 KT THIS AFTERNOON. WIND WAVES 4 FT. W SWELL 13 FT AT 15 SECONDS.
Got all amped last night...
"I'll get up early..."
"Pack up my boards..."
"In the water early..."
"Still get my work done."
Still had the goal this AM...
But a check of the buoys...
A call for the inside line...
And the pile of work lined up...
Made for a reality check...
Probably would have taken more than one...
Of the above type waves at 13 foot...
On the head for good measure too...
So we'll hold on to next week...
And try to match those east winds...
With a mere 10 foot swell or so.

 

Wednesday, November 26, 2008

Replacement

2 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 7:47 PM


NE WIND 15 TO 20 KT. WIND WAVES 3 TO 4 FT. NW SWELL 10 FT AT 12 SECONDS.
Froze my ass off yesterday...
Pouring down rain as I pulled up...
Put on my foul weather gear for the walk in...
Just in case the hike yielded absolute crap...
But it looked workable despite emptiness...
Wrapped my clothes in said gear to keep them dry...
Freezing cold series of duck dive and persistence...
New style ear plugs gouging during sinusoidal sea changes...
Sitting in the rain, on the water, waiting for waves, between lumps...
Edging in after missed opportunities, scrambling back out regularly...
A few big wooly ones rolling through, struggles back to the outside...
Big drops, bails, bounces, thashings and drubbings galore...
Just one more, just one more, edge in, edge in, oh shit...
Liquid explosion 50 yards outside any previous sets...
Repeated bashings taken on the head...
Until a glance behind reveals a shore nearer than said waves...
Spin, paddle, and prone it in in unwitnessed surrender...
Shivering, in the rain, strip, unbundle clothes, dress for the hike out...
Get to the car, dump gear, stash board, truck pulls into the lot...
Head pops out, "How was it?", I glance at the empty lot...
"Better than work", he grabs a board out of the back...
And heads down the trail, my replacement.

 

Tuesday, November 25, 2008

Secretive

6 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 7:30 AM


S WIND 15 KT...VEERING TO N 15 TO 20 KT IN THE AFTERNOON. WIND WAVES 2 FT...BUILDING TO 4 FT IN THE AFTERNOON. W SWELL 9 FTAT 11 SECONDS.
Another dream wave for you mindsurfers...
I have surfed this spot exactly 2 times...
By myself and on much smaller swells than this...
It may not look it but this is a solid DOH day...
Which is why I was perched on a cliff...
Snapping pictures...
Rather than in the water.
Access here is severe...
And has grown worse over the last few years...
Suit up, and slide down a rope...
One handed, and with a board under your arm...
Getting home is much worse...
In fact, once after a trio of failed attempts one summer day...
I paddled around the headland to get home...
It only took about 45 minutes.

 

Monday, November 24, 2008

Feathering

1 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 7:40 AM


SE WIND 10 TO 20 KT BECOMING S TO SE 10 TO 15 KT THIS AFTERNOON. WIND WAVES 3 FT. W SWELL 6 TO 7 FT AT 11 SECONDS.
I love those indicators...
Wash rocks getting washed...
The peak up the beach cracking...
Or the line way outside feathering and frothing...
Only to lay back down and march on in...
Where you wait for it to throw.

 

Sunday, November 23, 2008

South Easterlies

0 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 9:30 AM


E TO SE WIND 10 TO 15 KT...LOCALLY TO 20 KT FAR NORTHERN OUTER WATERS. WIND WAVES 2 TO 4 FT. W SWELL 7 TO 8 FT AT 11 SECONDS.
Looks like some nice lumps on the approach...
Hoping things will hold up through Tuesday...
So I can find a nice landing strip or ten.

 

Friday, November 21, 2008

Vanishing Point

14 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 12:51 PM


~pic by Anthony from Birdman Tribe Blog
~click on the pic for a better (bigger) view

S WIND 15 TO 20 KT WITH GUSTS TO 25 KT...RISING TO 30 TO 35 KT WITH GUSTS TO 40 KT IN THE AFTERNOON. COMBINED SEAS 13 FT DOMINANT PERIOD 11 SECONDS.
Some things seem perfectly clear...
Despite the cacophony all around us...
Don't just stand there!
Paddle out.

 

Thursday, November 20, 2008

Surf Rat

5 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 10:56 AM


S WIND 25 TO 30 KT...VEERING TO W IN THE AFTERNOON. GUSTS UP TO 35 KT. WIND WAVES 6 FT. SW SWELL 8 FT AT 13 SECONDS.
This gave me a whole new outlook on the term...
I feel kind of bad for the rat though...
Surffering at the hands of bored groms...
Looks like the rat's about to get worked.

 

Tuesday, November 18, 2008

A Day or Two Ago

8 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 8:41 PM

Early...
Late...

NE WIND 15 TO 20 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 4 FT AT 9 SECONDS.
Either way you cut it...
I missed it...
And so did you.

 

Monday, November 17, 2008

Decisions

3 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 8:14 AM


S WIND 15 TO 20 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT... BUILDING TO 4 FT. W SWELL 5 FT AT 10 SECONDS.
You gotta follow your heart...
Sometimes there's a payoff...
Sometimes there's not.

 

Saturday, November 15, 2008

Whole Lotta Good

2 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 4:05 PM


N WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 7 FT AT 12 SECONDS.
Not the spot to be padddling out necessarily...
But an indicator of some goodness...
Somewhere a wave is breaking.

 

Tuesday, November 11, 2008

Nasty Shitty Giant

3 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 9:47 PM


SW WIND 25 TO 30 KT. GUSTS UP TO 40 KT. COMBINED SEAS 17 FT DOMINANT PERIOD 14 SECONDS.
Hell...
I didn't even drive to the beach!
It looks pretty dismal...
Passing on tomorrow...
And hoping Thursday's offshores...
And twelve foot surf...
Works out.

 

Friday, November 07, 2008

Just Waiting

1 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 5:01 PM


S WIND 25 TO 30 KT WITH GUSTS TO 35 KT. COMBINED SEAS 10 FT BUILDING TO 14 FT. DOMINANT PERIOD 9 SECONDS.
For the wind to die down...
And the surf to clean up.

 

Wednesday, November 05, 2008

Surfspectations

7 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 6:52 PM


SE WIND 20 TO 25 KT WITH GUSTS TO 30 KT. COMBINED SEAS 8 FT DOMINANT PERIOD 10 SECONDS.
After 2 weeks outta the water...
I have largely forgotten what it's like to surf...
Probably should sign up for a surf school...
Headed out tomorrow with boards in tow...
Don't have the highest of surfspectations...
But right now...
I'd settle for pretty much surfable slop.

 

Sunday, November 02, 2008

Hull Gallery

3 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 9:12 PM


S WIND 15 KT WITH GUSTS TO 20 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 12 FT AT 11 SECONDS.
Watercolor by surfer/artist Jeffrey Hull...
Nice OPB Art Beat piece on him recently, here.

 

Saturday, November 01, 2008

Post Halloween

1 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 9:20 AM


SE WIND 10 TO 20 KT...INCREASING S 20 TO 30 KT WITH GUSTS TO 40 KT BY THIS AFTERNOON. STRONGEST WINDS WILL BE BEYOND 10 NM FROM SHORE. COMBINED SEAS 11 FT DOMINANT PERIOD 10 SECONDS...BUILDING TO 15 FT DOMINANT PERIOD 12 SECONDS IN THE AFTERNOON.
The Grim Reaper wishing for better surf at a mysto spot.
Also, came across this great vid from the geniuses over at Svrf & Destroy...



Surf of the Dead from Chad Huff on Vimeo.

 

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