modern warfare
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little men with White Nationalist tattoos
talk new pull up standards for the military
while the reality is
gender neutral drones will be fighting gender neut...
4 days ago
Saturday, February 28, 2009
SE WIND 20 TO 25 KT. WIND WAVES 4 TO 6 FT. W SWELL 5 FT AT 14 SECONDS.
Corduroy...
Wrinkles...
Lines...
Riiight.
Friday, February 27, 2009
SE WIND 10 TO 15 KT WITH GUSTS TO 20 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 6 FT AT 14 SECONDS.
I didn't surf here...
But it looked alot like where I did surf...
I surfed that One place...
On that One board...
The new One...
With the One fin...
In that One Cove...
Lined up with that One tree...
Off that One rock...
There was this One wave...
It was a pretty good One...
Wish I'd got One over...
But I didn't, not One...
No One did, from what I saw...
And I was the only One out...
Until another One showed...
Otherwise, it was One...
Yes One, big waste of time...
But it was a fun One...
Once again.
Thursday, February 26, 2009
NW WIND 10 KT WITH GUSTS TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 10 FT AT 16 SECONDS.
Freaky...
I don't dig cats...
I'm afraid of horses
No problem with boats...
This photo was a cover of The Stranger...
Photog is Corey Arnold...
Tuesday, February 24, 2009
SW WIND 15 TO 20 KT WITH GUSTS TO 25 KT...EASING TO 10 TO 15 KT WITH GUSTS TO 20 KT. WIND WAVES 4 FT...SUBSIDING TO 2 FT. SW SWELL 12 FT AT 10 SECONDS...SUBSIDING TO 8 FT AT 9 SECONDS.
Still from Big Wednesday...
Peter Townend as surf double for William Katt...
Jan Michael Vincent's double was Billy Hamilton...
Gary Busey's was Ian Cairns...
The movie, while a bit hokey...
Has some truly classic moments...
A must see surf flick.
Friday, February 20, 2009
E WIND 5 TO 10 KT. WINDWAVES 1 FT. SW SWELL 9 TO 10 FT AT 11 SECONDS.
Spot X was too small...
Or so I thought...
Spot Q was better...
Or so I thought...
It was big, but doable...
Or so I thought...
Smaller than last week...
Or so I thought...
And not totally closed out...
Or so I thought...
There was a channel...
Or so I thought...
I'll get some good ones...
Or so I thought...
Here comes a decent one...
Or so I thought...
I can make the drop...
Or so I thought...
I can make it back out...
Or so I thought...
Here comes a better one...
Or so I thought...
I can make it down the line...
Or so I thought...
I'm goin' back to Spot X...
Or so I thought...
Spot X was too small...
Or so I thought.
Wednesday, February 18, 2009
E WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 7 FT AT 16 SECONDS.Not that I need a reason...
But Gazza called me...
He was going surfing...
No one else called me...
But I'm sure they all went surfing...
So I am heading out on Friday...
I think I will go surfing...
Of course, it'll be 10 foot again...
And I'll probably get bounced...
But what are my alternatives?
Not go surfing?
Fuck that.
Sunday, February 15, 2009
E WIND 20 TO 25 KT WITH GUSTS TO 30 KT. WIND WAVES 6 FT. W SWELL 6 FT AT 13 SECONDS.
Cam shots like these wound me...
Yeah, I probably wouldn't be able to stay in position...
Yeah, I probably couldn't outrace that left...
Yeah, it's probably alot windier than it looks...
Yeah, those peaks probably are as shifty as hell...
Yeah, yeah, yeah...
Yeah, I think it looks surfable.
Thursday, February 12, 2009
SE WIND 15 TO 25 KT. WIND WAVES 3 FT. W SWELL 9 TO 11 FT AT 14 SECONDS.
Saw an all too brief window...
So skedaddled before it closed...
But too much work to do...
And had to drive away from surf...
Work, work, work...
Finally wrapped up at 4pm...
Pulled the trigger on a quick DP...
Not a dawnie, but a duskie...
In the water by 4:30...
Pretty solid, well overhead...
Wave one was a punisher...
Bottom dropped out...
Free fall to the bottom...
Thrashed and spun...
But the next 4 lefts...
Made up for the punishment.
Tuesday, February 10, 2009
SW WIND 20 TO 25 KT...WITH A FEW GUSTS TO 35 KT BEFORE DARK. WIND BECOMING SE 20 TO 25 KT AFTER MIDNIGHT. WIND WAVES 6FT. WEST SWELL 15 FT AT 11 SECONDS. ALL FUCKERED UP.
I don't need to go into it...
But I will say (or admit)...
That this is picture represents...
Pretty much the polar opposite...
Of everything Surf In Oregon...
And it still rules.
Saturday, February 07, 2009
E TO NE WIND 5 TO 10 KT. WIND WAVES 3 FT. W SWELL 11 FT AT 16 SECONDS.
When you can't be there in person...
Sometimes you have to go...
Videodrome.
Thursday, February 05, 2009
SE WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 7 FT AT 11 SECONDS.
Sometimes you just have to put your head in the noose...
I looked here, I looked there, then there, and there...
I sat and watched, and it looked really bad...
I watched some more, it still looked bad...
Well, maybe that wave wasn't as bad as the last one...
I must be getting better, but it looks pretty bad...
How can I be totally sure that it's as bad as it looks?
By paddling out of course, which I did...
It was pretty bad, but I caught a few fun ones.
Tuesday, February 03, 2009
SE WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 9 FT AT 12 SECONDS.
It wasn't nearly as clean as the wave in the pic but...
Got in a dead low tide to find some smooth lumps...
It was peaky and shifty but plenty of lined up walls too...
Just overhead with the occasional bomb out the back...
I paddled way outside in hopes of picking one off...
But the wait in between was too long and I'd drift in...
Only to get caught scratching for the outside again...
Sun was out, wind was down, swell was building...
All in all, a good day to go surfing.
Monday, February 02, 2009
S WIND 5 TO 10 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 7 FT AT 10 SECONDS.
Looks like a pretty nice place to be tonight...
Hope tomorrow holds some of the same...
Looks like the swell and period both bump...
Local windswell might be a little bumpy but...
Hoping that 13 second period will smooth things out.
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