Turn On It, Tune Out, Drop In

E WIND 10 TO 15 KT. GUSTS UP TO 20 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 5 FT AT 14 SECONDS.

The forecast is from today, Monday...
The pics from Saturday & Sunday...
I think the swell was running 13 foot...
Then dropped to 9 foot...
But it was a solid 9 foot...
I didn't even make a drive Saturday...
Opted for a hike...
To the vantage point in pic 2...
Sunday slipped and slid in the hail...
On up north in a state of low expectation...
Saw one taker get one wave...
Then take several on the head...
Before scrambling up on the rocks...
Headed back for coffee and couch...
Hiked out later for a look at the same cove...
This time from the north end...
It's surfable...
Not that I'd advise it.

SE WIND 15 TO 20 KT WITH GUSTS TO 25 KT. WIND WAVES 4 FT. W SWELL 10 FT AT 9 SECONDS.

A few of you out there...
Have gotten some early presents...
Spun out of the North Pacific...
Hoping to do some holiday shopping myself...
This week before Christmas...
SE winds and groundswell...
Ho, Ho, Ho.

W TO SW WIND 20 TO 25 KT WITH GUSTS TO 30 KT...EASING TO 15 TO 20 KT AFTER MIDNIGHT. WIND WAVES 6 FT...SUBSIDING TO 4 FT. W SWELL 16 FT AT 10 SECONDS. SHOWERS.

Sometime you just have to hunker down...
Get out the wind & the rain...
Just wait it out.

S WIND 20 TO 25 KT.
GUSTS TO 30 KT.
WIND WAVES 4 TO 7 FT.
SW SWELL 15 TO 17 FT AT 12 SECONDS.

Going through some old shots...
Came across this one...
Don't think I ever used it...
Maybe I did, can't recall...
I do recall the session tho...
Dead of winter...
Hiked out to a non-surf spot...
Well, rarely surfed anyhow...
It was pretty junky all morning...
So I left the boards in the car...
Just checking driftwood piles...
And snapping some pics...
When lo and behold...
A chest high left comes through...
And one behind it...
And another and another...
After 15 minutes I'd had enough...
Quick rock scramble back to the rig...
Suit up, scramble back up the spit...
Pick my way out through the rocks inside...
And surf all by my lonesome for about 2 hours...
The left was only solid about an hour...
But enough sneaking through for the next...
To keep me happy...
Finally paddled in...
Left was gone...
Beach still empty.

Report for late in the day...
Looked better early fo sho.

S WIND 30 TO 40 KT. GUSTS TO 45 KT...POSSIBLY TO 50 KT OVER THE OUTER WATERS THIS EVENING. COMBINED SEAS 12 FT NEARSHORE...BUILDING TO 15 TO 18 FT. OVER THE OUTER WATERS SEAS NEAR 20 FT. DOMINANT PERIOD 10 SECONDS.

That's a dense and busy report...
Offset by a simple wave.

SE WIND 15 TO 20 KT. WIND WAVES 5 FT. SW SWELL 3 FT AT 12 SECONDS

Actually, the surf isn't up...
There were some waves in some places...
Some confused seas in others...
And combined seas of 20 feet in 2 days...
Winter time swings...
Been a dearth of posts of late...
Sadly, like the surfs...
But things lay back down...
Maybe as early as Friday, so...
Listen for the klaxon.

SW WIND 15 TO 20 KT. WIND WAVES 4 FT. W SWELL 11 FT AT 13 SECONDS.

Mad Strand Master Russ Short...
3 fin Bonzer frontside swing...
To backside bury.

 

S WIND 20 TO 25 KT WITH GUSTS TO 35 KT. WIND WAVES 7 FT. W SWELL 8 FT AT 9 SECONDS.

Well, Wednesday's surf was fun...
From beginning to end...
The middle part sucked a little bit...
Overhead sets, sunny and glassy...
Picked off fun left on the 7'0" quad...
Made the wave, little off the top as it closed out...
cut back into the wave for the paddle back out...
Doink! "Ahhh...that's nothing", I thought...
Hand to forehead though and lots of blood...
Paddled in, had someone take a look...
They confirmed it looked pretty shallow...
Still took about an hour to stop the bleeding...
Paddled back out on the 9'4" Phillips single...
Bad quad! You only get to cut me once per session...
Caught a bunch more fun ones unscathed...
Oh well, scars are cool.

S WIND 20 TO 25 KT. WIND WAVES 4 FT. W SWELL 10 FT AT 16 SECONDS.

Nothing like 4 days of sun...
North winds with long period swell...
Amping, amping, amping...
For Friday...
Those 4 days were followed...
With strong south wind...
Sloppiness, rain & misery...
Who knows?
Maybe it's all time...
Behind the raindrops.