SEPTEMBER 1!
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Welcome to the 2026/2027 good wave season! You made it through another
summer. One of the stronger south swell seasons i can remember and it's
not ne...
2 weeks ago
Monday, August 30, 2010
4 different waves...
Of 4 different sizes...
On 4 different days...
In 4 different places.
Monday, August 09, 2010
It wasn't 7 foot at 15 seconds this past weekend...
But there were some solid chest high peaks pushing through...
2 days of surfing and drinking and eating and surfing...
Hey! You said surfing twice...
I like surfing.
Saturday, July 31, 2010
On my way for a 4 day backpack trip...
To the Enchanted Valley in Olympic Nat'l Park...
Sooloo summed up the trip, as only he can:
"Sounds gay"...
Not that there's anything wrong with that.
Thursday, July 29, 2010
Image from the Dalian spill in China...
Yet another catastrophe...
Of contamination and death...
For the world to suffer.
Thursday, July 15, 2010
Pretty windswept out there...
North wind upwelling...
Making the water icy cold...
6 to 8 foot swell...
Make the choice between...
Shortboard or longboard tough...
Get home and no understanding...
Sometimes it's hard to...
Surf In Oregon.
Monday, July 12, 2010
Those 4 cards tell it all...
At least on some days...
Or weeks, or months...
About Surf In Oregon...
There's more to it...
But we'll discuss that...
Later.
Wednesday, June 23, 2010
Da Bull...
Showing the better part of valor...
Better to turn turtle...
Dodge the fray...
And live to paddle...
Into da bigger wave!
Monday, June 21, 2010
A solid 3 foot windswell...
Currently grooming sandbars...
Yesterday's Father's Day paddle...
Yielded mostly that...
A paddle...
Interspersed with waist high loggables...
It would have been great...
Aside from the misery...
Inflicted from a friend's B-Day party...
And a healthy dose of IPA...
Mixed with red wine...
The hangover was gone...
After 3 or 4 hours...
And only two swims...
Due to post-drink imbalance...
I felt kinda like the boats in the pic...
Recognize the stack in the back?
Friday, June 18, 2010
~photo poached from Surfrider
NW WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 6 FT AT 11 SECONDS.
I grouse about onshore winds...
Cold water, wind, fickle swell...
Waves are too big, or too small...
I complain about mild crowding...
Or kooks that get in my way...
Getting backpaddled or snaked...
I moan about long drives looking for waves...
Hem and haw about paddling out in marginal conditions...
Worry about waht's under my feet I can't see...
I rarely worry about the clean water...
Now we all need to...
We've seen the pic of dead pelicans...
Heard the excuses from BP execs...
Here's a peak in Alabama...
Would you surf it?
Sunday, June 06, 2010
W WIND 5 TO 10 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 5 FT AT 10 SECONDS.
But yesterday's forecast read...
E WIND 5 TO 10. WIND WAVES 1 FT. W SWELL 7 FT AT 11 SECONDS...
Not that big a difference...
But enough to to prompt me...
To be in the water by 8:30...
Surfed for 5 hours...
In sun and stiff offshores...
On head high hollow lefts...
With the occassional right for balance...
Big arrowhead peaks would show...
With square corners...
Opening up and sectioning...
Into reeling walls on the inside bar...
Not quite big enough for proper tubes...
But round enough to tuck into briefly here and there...
After a outside in left that ended in waist deep water...
Sunburnt face, aching shoulders and assorted pains...
Frome getting bounced and thrashed a couple times...
I called it a day...
Sat...isfied...
Sat...iated...
Sat...urated...
Sat...urday.
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