Turn On It, Tune Out, Drop In

N WIND 20 TO 25 KT. WIND WAVES 5 FT. W SWELL 11 FT AT 14 SECONDS. CHANGING TO N WIND 20 TO 25 KT. WIND WAVES 6 FT. W SWELL 12 FT AT 13 SECONDS.
It's a tricky thing, setting up to get barrelled surfing. Force it, and it won't work. The waves have to cooperate, the wind needs to be right and you need the proper board.

Do you need to disappear totally to "claim" a tube? Or does the liquid sheet have to pass you just a bit? If the wave collapses and you break through, but not pop out...was it a genuine barrel?

There are few moments in surfing that compare to tube riding...that moment you know that everything is going to come together and you slide further and further back as the wall steepens and lengthens in front of you and you slip under the curtain or the lip launches over you as you step on the gas and race for your life.

Local Report:
Woke up at 7:30 at Moolack. The sets were really clean in the morning and the winds were perfectly offshore. However I noticed how far out the waves were breaking, there was no way I could have done it... Settled for Ottter, waves weren't working well at first, you had to sit on the inside just to catch them. At about 10am the winds calmed for a brief period and the best waves started coming. I took off on a right. It was fast and about shoulder high, it was my longest ride of the day. The longshore current was picking up alot throughout the afternoon, odd waves throught the rest of the day.