Turn On It, Tune Out, Drop In

SE WIND 25 KT WITH GUSTS TO 35 KT OUTER WATERS...BECOMING S 30 TO 35 KT.
COMBINED SEAS 15 FT DOMINANT PERIOD 9 SECONDS.
TONIGHT S WIND 30 TO 35 KT WITH GUSTS TO 40 KT...EASING TO 15 KT AFTER MIDNIGHT. COMBINED SEAS 16 FT DOMINANT PERIOD 10 SECONDS.

Looking reasonably calm this am...but sure to be a stiff breeze later today. There is one place where the winds die down...when you tuck into a barrel. Everything goes silent...the silent roar...the calm in the eye of the maelstrom...even when you barely fit!

Local Report:

Kinda intimidating out there today. Still got some nice head high rights at the super secret spot. Just had to put up with regular cleanup sets that would bulldoze through. Caught it at the right part of the tide and got some long fast drops. Started getting lumpy and weird as the tide dropped.