Turn On It, Tune Out, Drop In

E WIND 10 KT THIS MORNING BECOMING SW THIS AFTERNOON. WIND WAVES 1 FOOT. W SWELL 11 FT AT 12 SECONDS. SW WIND 10 TO 15 KT...BACKING TO S AFTER MIDNIGHT.
WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 8 FT AT 11 SECONDS. CHANCE OF RAIN.

No feeling is better than paddling out on into lined up surf that allows you to tuck away, fade deeper and deeper and just race that lip down the line.

Local Report:

...went out on the 9-0 high performance LB in the late morning and stayed out for about two hours. It was tricky, closing out, and too fast, but every now and then I found an overhead wave to paddle into. My last wave was well over head with a steep drop and a sketchy bottom turn. I raced for the corner, but it pitched up and barely gave me a path to straighten out. I proned it in as it closed out, then stood back up as it reformed into a little bowl. I thought I was going to pearl, but I made it through the little inside section, then went prone again and called it a day.