Turn On It, Tune Out, Drop In

NW WIND 5 TO 10 KT.
WIND WAVES 2 FT.
W SWELL 6 FT AT 11 SECONDS.
TONIGHT NW WIND 5 TO 10 KT.
WIND WAVES 1 FOOT.
W SWELL 6 FT AT 10 SECONDS.

Yesterday...headed out in AM...looked kinda flaccid...high tide...soft...a few other spots revealed little else...

The report was for 6', so brought the 9'6" single fin...good call for the first couple hours...waves were soft and mushy, about waist to chest high...long and fun rides all the way into the shallows with essentially dry hair paddles back out...

Had a peak all to myself for over an hour...there were 8+ people out on the south end of the cove I was surfing...admittedly, it looked better than where I was, but not that much better!

At about 2:30 or so a couple others paddled out and as the tide went out the waves started hollowing out a bit...I started wishing for a shortboard, as the paddle out wasn't quite as leisurely and the waves were a bit punchier.

There was a mix of peaks and walls and everything in between...I remembered why you shouldn't ride a single-fin downrailer longboard like a tri-fin shortboard when I dropped in to a hollow little left...came off the bottom, up off the top of the wave and the lip pitched and I was airborne...kinda tricky landing that much board...and I almost did, but didn't.

Got thrashed about in the pit with the board smacking around...something gouged my foot pretty hard, checked the boot, no tear...so paddled out for more...final wave was a hollow chest high pit...tried for a little tube but had to settle for less...but it was definitely my wave of the day and after 4 hours I decided to end on the high note...

By the time I got home my foot was nice and swollen...feels a bit better today.