Turn On It, Tune Out, Drop In

W WIND 5 TO 10 KT...BECOMING SW 10 TO 15 KT IN THE MORNING.
BECOMING S 20 TO 25 KT IN THE AFTERNOON.
WIND WAVES 1 FOOT...BUILDING TO 5 FT.
W SWELL 7 FT AT 12 SECONDS.
TONIGHT SW WIND 20 TO 25 KT.
WIND WAVES 6 FT.
SW SWELL 7 FT AT 11 SECONDS...BUILDING TO 9 FT AT 11 SECONDS AFTER MIDNIGHT.

I remember the first time I saw these pics...oh my God! Everyone was so fired up...people started trying to skate various concrete structures...drainpipes, freeway overpasses, reservoirs...you name it, they tried to skate it...with varying degrees of success...and pain. The places were not smooth continuous concrete, skates were primitive (by today's standards, and safety equipment was nearly non-existent.

Local Report:

...sets from 3 to 6 feet, very clean drops followed by long sections that brushed my head and hands. In the brief rests between waves 3 seals checked me out and teal like birds carried away mouthfuls of sprats. About 20 mins into this solo session, the sweetest wave I've had in a long time rolled through. Bouncing off the headland and building over the rip the peak stacked as far north as I could paddle. Instead of a long unmakeable section the wave's arm bent slightly out to sea and a steep drop left me looking at an overhead wall...tucking under the lip I pulled into the barrel. A cover up then pushed out by the lip off the bottom and back up into the face, a fast wall that had me stepping to the nose and eventually pulling over the back as the wave closed out.