Tuesday, April 04, 2006

Point Boards


E TO SE WIND 10 TO 15 KT...BACKING TO N IN THE AFTERNOON.
WIND WAVES 2 FT.
W SWELL 11 FT AT 12 SECONDS...SUBSIDING TO 8 FT AT 12 SECONDS IN THE AFTERNOON. TONIGHT N WIND 10 TO 15 KT.
WIND WAVES 2 FT.
W SWELL 6 FT AT 11 SECONDS.

When I was a kid, we'd go to the beach with my uncle. He'd surf for hours and we were pretty much left to fend for ourselves. This was in the late 60's and there were old boards that just lived at the point...point boards. In many cases, they weren't in much better shape than the one above. But we'd paddle them out and surf them anyway...

Local Report:

Good waves today...6'-8'...got out a little late but it stayed good till late in the day anyway. Lot's of sets and water movement to match, arms are feeling the burn tonight! Long righthanders...not sure that I even saw a left ridden all day. A pair of eagles flew over the break not much higher than the cape itself, nice to see them, wonder if they would have been interested in the seal pup that was beached last week?!
~gazsurf

1 comments:

HumanSlug said...

you dont hear many stories like that happening anymore doc. I like hearing them. We should get Hump to get a blog or write a book.

Fish