Thursday, May 11, 2006

Refrain


N WIND 15 TO 20 KT.
WIND WAVES 2 FT...BUILDING TO 4 FT IN THE AFTERNOON.
W SWELL 6 FT AT 10 SECONDS.
TONIGHT N WIND 10 TO 15 KT.
WIND WAVES 2 FT.
W SWELL 6 FT AT 10 SECONDS.

There's a common refrain among surfers in Oregon...and probably in many surf communities throughout the world...when asked by an outsider about how the waves are at any given location.

There is no surf in Oregon!

Obviously, if there was no surf...there would be no surfers to deny its very existence.

The pic above is an example of another Oregon non-spot...more likely frequented by RV'ers cruising the coastline...the chance of anyone sampling these waves is slim...the jagged rocks along the edge of the cliff give a pretty good indication of what to expect (or suspect) as to bottom contour.

I surfed a spot like this a few years back...because it was working...dodging boils and a few exposed rocks, I picked off a few warbly waves...only to rewarded with a snapped off skeg that snagged a hidden rock... miraculaously, I didn't bounce off the same crag.

Cold, Fickle, Sharky...and Rocky.

2 comments:

rob said...

I guess you guys get to be pretty handy with the ding repairs...

Tony said...

I surf a creek mouth between Coos and Florence...
The first time, I sat on the beach for twenty minutes with binoculars, picking off the boils and rocks. Slwoly made my way out, watching the break from the channel for a good twenty minutes. Looked rideable, semi-hollow and peeling for about 50 yards. Nice set up next to a rock...
I got into the line up and waited about 10 more minutes till I saw my set wave coming.
As a paddled slightly towards the channel, I got my foot caught in a goonie, I paddled harder to free myself, ended up catching the wave-still wrapped in the goonie. Made it to the bottom where I just stopped, the wave threw over me and sent me to the bottom, goonie still firmly attached. Came up some ten seconds later, got free of the goonie, paddled back out to the peak and asked the place, "Is that all you got?"

I was rewarded with dry hair waves for the next three hours. Easy paddle, dopent hold over 6 feet but its like a point wave.
I have seen one other surfer there, I waited for him to get out before I paddled, never said a word to eachother.
Its one of those spots that you have to study before you see the possibilities.