Turn On It, Tune Out, Drop In

N WIND 10 TO 15 KT...RISING TO 20 TO 25 KT THIS AFTERNOON.
STRONGEST WINDS S OF CAPE FALCON.
WIND WAVES 2 FT BUILDING TO 5 FT.
W SWELL 10 FT AT 12 SECONDS.
TONIGHT N WIND 15 TO 20 KT...EASING TO 10 TO 15 KT AFTER MIDNIGHT.
WIND WAVES 4 FT...SUBSIDING TO 2 FT AFTER MIDNIGHT.
W SWELL 9 FT AT 11 SECONDS.

Strongest winds south of Cape Falcon...truer words were never spoken.

It wasn't the windiest day ever, but the breeze was pretty stiff.
Holding up the lefts to some extent, and blowing the right flat.
Paddled out about noon, solid swell closing out on the bar.
Dodged a few bombs, rewarded with screaming down the line lefts.
Some really solid peaks were showing, but it was tough getting in.
Blown out the back more than once, spin and go was the call.
Found a barrel or two in between close outs, inner bar mayhem.
How far do you push it?...a little more, one more cut...thump!
As the tide went out, the left wedged and lined up more consistently.
Scratched hard into an outside peak, reeled through to the shallows.
Wasn't going to get better than that so called it a session.
Although dripping dry on the beach cancelled that decision.
Paddled out for a few more...