Turn On It, Tune Out, Drop In

NW WIND 15 TO 20 KT.
A FEW GUSTS TO 25 KT S OF CAPE FALCON IN THE AFTERNOON.
WIND WAVES 2 FT...BUILDING TO 4 FT IN THE AFTERNOON.
W SWELL 8 FT AT 10 SECONDS.
TONIGHT N WIND 15 TO 20 KT.
A FEW GUSTS TO 25 KT S OF CAPE FALCON IN THE EVENING.
WIND WAVES 4 FT...SUBSIDING TO 2 FT AFTER MIDNIGHT.
W SWELL 7 FT AT 9 SECONDS.

Some thoughts from Gills on surf, gear and stoke:

I have what I need.
I surf my whole quiver.
I'm not [in] want of more boards.
If I am, I buy it.
I'm not rich, but I have a fun fund for surf stuff that I donate to religiously.
I think this gets more to the question of gearheads vs. [not gearheads].
I'm not a gearhead.
I wear stuff until it falls off my body.
I drive cars until they die.
I ride boards until they snap.

...about this valley kook stuff that's been popping up of late.
I agree that the Stewart Longboarder at XX four times a summer isn't cool.
But for those of us who get up at 4:00am to drive to the beach,
...surf for three hours and be back to work by 10:00am don't do it by choice.

And then because we're green,
...we bicycle commute to compensate for the waste of gas.
And what impedes our surfing is a little gut by genetic roullette
...so we run 15 miles a week and swim 5
...so we can be better surfers
...[this] means we don't deserve this "your a valley kook" shit.

I get pissed that people assume
...the surfer next to them doesn't know anything
...if they're not as good as the next guy.
To me, surfing isn't about being as good as the next [guy]
...it's about me and the ocean and my love for the practice of its art.

I get stoked watching 'HD' kill it on his 7'2 when he doesn't know anyone is watching.
I get stoked when I paddle next to Sonny and watch how he reads waves
...and I think, "school is in session", pay attention.
I get stoked having a chat with Gaz about "how good it is"
...even after he watched me get my @ss handed to me.

I guarantee I live, breathe and write surfing.
And I know others do to.
So make sure you're calling a spade a spade...