Turn On It, Tune Out, Drop In

N WIND 10 TO 15 KT.
WIND WAVES 2 FT.
W SWELL 5 FT AT 9 SECONDS.

Had to spend a few days in the desert...how could anyone live somewhere that hits 118 degrees?

I am ready to enjoy the relatively cool weather of the Pacific Northwest...hoping that this week brings some fun surf and low winds...we'll see...

Local Report:

...took the bonzer...and stroked out to the wave you are arguing about but never surf. So my first mistake was to ignore the rip and try a channel I thought I saw (there was no channel). So I spend a very frustrating 15 minutes going straight up the gut with 8' faces crashing right in front of me in shallow water. Much to the amusment of the peanut gallery I'm sure. Lining up by myself was a bit difficult but I found my spot and wheeled into a 8-10 footer. Hit my feet, then hit my ass, then drilled a hole in the sand. Ocean-1/SooLoo-0. Paddle back out and repeat, and repeat, and repeat. I pick off a big right and feel redemption. Now it's time to start killing it. Another set looming and I'm in perfect position. I stroke in with ease, hit my feet as the wave charges into the sandbar, I get pitched and drill yet another hole into the sand, wash into the toilet bowl, day over. To make matters worse some old guy commented that he hasn't seen a beating like that in a long time. I hang my head in shame and make the long walk back to the heckles that I so richly deserved.