Turn On It, Tune Out, Drop In

N WIND 20 TO 25 KT DECREASING TO 10 TO 20 KT NEAR SHORE AFTER MIDNIGHT.
WIND WAVES 6 FT.
NW SWELL 6 FT AT 10 SECONDS.

I'll tell you what...
It was a helluvalot windier than the forecast...
Surfed one of the few protected coves today on the north coast...
Got in the water around 2pm...
At about 3, the place lit up...albeit breifly...
There were justified hoots...
Saw one guy pull off a genuine barrel...
The set waves were solid head high...
The rights were blown down flat quickly...
But the lefts occassionally were held open...
Even though they wanted to close out they couldn't...
I tried to pull into one of my own...
And while I was close, it was no cigar...
Just a screamer that I couldn't quite get ahead of...
All in all, a pretty fun day at Oregon's crowdedest beach...
Even with 40 people in the water...
I only had to jockey one time for a wave...
And yes, I got it.