Wednesday, August 09, 2006

Off The Bottom


NW WIND 10 KT...RISING TO 15 TO 20 KT IN THE AFTERNOON.
WIND WAVES 1 FOOT...BUILDING TO 4 FT IN THE AFTERNOON.
W SWELL 5 FT AT 9 SECONDS.
TONIGHT NW WIND 15 TO 20 KT...BECOMING N 10 TO 15 KT AFTER MIDNIGHT.
WIND WAVES 4 FT...SUBSIDING TO 2 FT AFTER MIDNIGHT.
W SWELL 5 FT AT 8 SECONDS.

It's a great feeling...
Long or shortboard...
The wave gets ahold of you...
You stand and make the drop...
Relaxed...
Sensation of speed...
Just lean it over in the trough...
Hard off the bottom...
Feeling the G's...
Project down the line...
As the wave sections...
Do it over and over again.

1 comments:

reverb said...

...also better if is a toob...