Turn On It, Tune Out, Drop In

NE WIND 10 KT...BECOMING N AFTER MIDNIGHT.
WIND WAVES 1 FOOT.
W SWELL 4 FT AT 11 SECONDS.

Kind of late on the report...surfed all day...so no apologies.

Had a rare double session...

Session 1

Up at dawn...
One of the first few out...
Peaky, speedy rights...
Close out lefts...
Made the wrong call...
Brought the 9'6" single fin...
Shoulda got short...
But I made the best of it...
Caught a few screaming rights...
But the wave of the morning...
Was an overhead left...
Got in early...
Swung it and lined it up...
Momentary barrel...
Only to be swallowed whole...
And pile driven into the sand...
Came up to find the board intact...
So paddled out for a few more...

Session 2

The wife wanted to go for a walk...
In the interest of marital bliss...
I assented...
However, on the beach...
A peak was showing itself...
Peeling right and left...
Uhhh, Honey? No walk...
Paddled out past the inshore trough..
To find deceptively large peaks...
Got pounded hard by a few...
Fortunately I was on the 6'9"...
Which while easier to duck wave...
I was still trying to surf like a 9'6"...
With bad results...
The first take off was late...
Over the falls...
Brief ragdolling...
Second wave much the same...
But I finally made the adjustment...
Surfing solo for a couple hours...

Lotsa heavy locals...
Big, big Stellar Sea Lions I think...
The salmon are running...
And I figger they're getting their share...
But what's chasing them?
I definitely felt a bit wary...
About my sea lion imitation...
While surfing the shortboard...

It wasn't cold today...
It wasn't fickle today...
It was still sharky.