Turn On It, Tune Out, Drop In

N WIND 15 TO 20 KT WITH GUSTS TO 25 KT THIS AFTERNOON.
WIND WAVES 4 FT.
W SWELL 6 FT AT 11 SECONDS.

Surfed a dawn patrol this AM...
Waves were good but pretty unremarkable...
Kinda unremakeble too...
Lotsa close outs with a few that lined up...

Completely socked in...
I paddled out thinking I was the only one out...
Only to find a few other huddled out there...
Paddled south and found a sand bar that offered fun lefts...

But it shut down after 5 or 6 waves...
Kept after it hoping to make something from nothing...
High tide provided some backwash fun on the inside...
But cold, warbly and long lulls made me call it a morning.

Came back for more in the afternoon...
The wind was on it but it was more lined up...
So I paddled out for a look...
Chasing peaks that were always out of range...

There were a few bombs that came through...
Usually just after you'd moved in out of frustration...
The wind got stronger, the waves shiftier, decided to head in...
Got my wave of the day, a left all the way to the beach.