Turn On It, Tune Out, Drop In

N WIND 10 TO 15 KT WITH GUSTS TO 20 KT.
WIND WAVES 2 FT.
W SWELL 5 FT AT 11 SECONDS.

Gotta love days like the past few...
Checked a likely spot yesterday...
Only to find closeouts and froth...
Took a nap on the beach, hoping...
But the tide swing didn't help...

So opted for a less likely spot...
That was working so, so well...
Uncrowded, clean and glassy...
Just overhead and sparkling...
Glowing green and reeling...

Overhead waves seem less threatening...
When surfed under warm sunny skies...
But that same 8 foot walling face...
Becomes a heavy slate gray slab...
When the sky is dark and dense with rain...