Turn On It, Tune Out, Drop In

NE WIND 10 TO 15 KT...RISING TO 15 TO 25 KT IN THE AFTERNOON.
WIND WAVES 4 FT.
NW SWELL 9 TO 10 FT AT 10 SECONDS EARLY...DROPPING TO 8 FT AT 10 SECONDS.
SUBSIDING TO 5 FT AT 9 SECONDS AFTER MIDNIGHT.

Summer's over and there aren't nearly as many cars in the lots at popular breaks these days. Some things never change though, as evidenced by all the cars parked at this popular Oregon coast destination.

Waves were fun this morning. Thought the swell would have a bit more push to it, but the rights were still pretty racy down the line before inner bar detonation. Overrode my own common sense and went left on a close out, took my board to the chin. Nothing too serious, I thought. However, now that the icy cold has worn off, I have a nice little bump and a very sore jaw.

Water was cold today, air too. Once I got out, I couldn't even make a fist because my hands were so swollen from the cold. Time to break out the gloves, I think.