Turn On It, Tune Out, Drop In

S WIND 5 TO 10 KT WITH GUSTS TO 15 KT... BECOMING SW 10 TO 15 KT.
WIND WAVES 2 FT.
NW SWELL 10 FT AT 11 SECONDS.

An early example of surfii oregonium...
Notice the ineffective cold water protection...
The lack of refinement in the skegless surfboard...
Square tail, narrow hips, no rocker, splinters...
These early boards pearled and slid out easily...
But there were no crowds!