Tuesday, October 03, 2006

Score


N WIND 10 TO 15 KT.
WIND WAVES 2 FT.
NW SWELL 5 FT AT 8 SECONDS.

Y'know...it sucks when work gets in the way of fun...
Pulled up to the break this morning to see a few out on it...
Looked good, not great...I mulled, I hemmed, I hawed...
It was flooded and soft, but clean and glassy too...
Surf now and work later or work now and surf later?

I decided to go to work, reasoning that a lower tide would help...
About noon I wrapped up and headed south to check a spot...
It wasn't working, I checked another, and another, and another...
Everything was looking warbly and weak, I kept moving...
The south side of Yaquina Head looked ok, but not worth it.

I realized that I should have gone back to my original spot...
It was working this morning, It'd be working now...right?
Wrong...it looked like drek, no one out and with good reason...
I headed north, checking spot after spot after spot...
A cove on Cape Meares looked promising, but I kept going.

The further north I got the more it looked like I'd get skunked...
I saw the bait shop, I had my fishing pole, maybe catch a few?
Nah! I swung through hamlets, over rivers, around bays...
Pulled into the lot at the only protected cove on the North coast...
Low, low hopes...I walked down without my board I was so sure.

Standing on the bluff, there were about 5 guys out in waist high surf...
But guess what? The south end was a little bit bumpy but...
The middle was showing little a-frames that reeled left...
And held up nicely from the stiff north wind that was pushing through...
I ran back up the trail, not giddy...but much, much happier.

Packed up the gear, grabbed my board and headed back down...
Paddled out to where a peak was showing and picked off a few...
Worked my way around the beachbreak, mostly lefts with a right or two...
About an hour in, a sandbar started showing, offering head high left bowls...
That provided rippable walls with some actual juice.

I surfed about 3 hours or so, most of the waves were pretty small...
The rights had absolutely no push, but the lefts were consistently fun...
As the tide changed it started back off a bit and I was chasing...
Finally caught a fun one that deposited me into the shallows...
And called it a night...the sun dropped into sight...Score!

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