Tuesday, October 17, 2006

Smumpy


NW WIND 5 TO 10 KT.
WIND WAVES 1 FOOT.
NW SWELL 8 FT AT 9 SECONDS.

Today the surf was smooth but bumpy...
Some big drops followed by nowhere to go...
Paddled into several that backed off...
Until they closed out on the inner bar...

While it was better than nothing...
It was only by a very close margin...
I had a far more enjoyable time...
Drinking beer on the beach in the sun...

Additionally, on my first wave...
I got bounced hard off the bottom...
And my left ear filled with water...
Which I still cannot clear...

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