Sunday, October 08, 2006

Thumpy


S WIND 10 TO 15 KT...BECOMING NW 10 KT IN THE AFTERNOON.
WIND WAVES 2 FT.
NW SWELL 5 FT AT 10 SECONDS...BUILDING TO 8 FT AT 10 SECONDS.

Haven't caught this spot since early summer...
When the sand bars are working it can get very good...
Heaving close in a-frames breaking top to bottom...
Heavy rips, strong currents and relentless winds...
Sometimes converge to make it less than optimum though...
But catch it right and you can get pitted and spitted...

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