Tuesday, November 21, 2006

Blown


S WIND 30 TO 40 KT...EASING TO 25 KT.
COMBINED SEAS 15 TO 18 FT DOMINANT PERIOD 10 SECONDS.

There are lots of things that are rewarding about surfing as a whole...and plenty of things that make Surfing in Oregon special as well...a few comments from people who surf these frigid waters:

I love surfing here and...dig the surf culture. I've met...[many] very cool folks from surfing and...like the vibe.
~gills
I am lucky enough to live in [one of] the most consistent areas of the coast in all conditions. Also,...the most stone age.
~ss
Everything on the coast is super-sized in Oregon. Human beings are dwarfed in these seascapes...I miss Oregon when I'm somewhere south of here. Mountains and rivers! You can be alone here in an infinity of space. Since I've been here, I've surfed in snow, been in perfect waves by myself on a number of occasions, or with one or two other riders.
~paul
...surfed epic overhead conditions with three friends. That's why I live here...no planning...if it's good...you go. As I type this I'm looking at the ocean. That's why I live here. More often than not my biggest decision is which board to ride....no bad days.
~ding

For myself, it's definitely all of the above. I love the solitude, but also am stoked about the people I've met. If I want to surf with others, there are places to go...but if I want to surf solo, I can find it just as easily. And while not wanting to jinx myself or others...I actually like the risk of it. I don't consider surfing an extreme sport...I don't even consider it a sport for that matter...but there is a very base and primal element to surfing here that can be exhilirating an a whole other level.

Aside from the image above, the frustrations of surfing here can be multiple and persistent on the other hand...howling winds, storm tracks that hit here (producing surf for our southern neighbors... you're very welcome), potential setups that are rocky and unrideable, and as you may have guessed...cold, fickle and sharky.

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