Thursday, November 30, 2006

Hang On


NW WIND 10 TO 15 KT WITH GUSTS TO 20 KT.
WIND WAVES 4 FT.
W SWELL 11 FT AT 9 SECONDS.

There are few things lamer, in my opinion, than the surfer that bails out in front of a wave that catches them inside. Don't get me wrong, there are times that you simply can't hang on and the board is ripped from your grasp...and I'm not so core that I disdain someone who'd ditch in double overhead or bigger surf who was in a bad position and wasn't endangering someone else...

But you have to hang on to the board...take your medicine...suffer the consequences if necessary.

2 comments:

J said...

Bet theres a good story behind this. J

Doc said...

More than one to be sure...