Turn On It, Tune Out, Drop In

~photo holddown
TONIGHT S WIND 20 KT.
WIND WAVES 5 FT.
W SWELL 10 FT AT 13 SECONDS.

What happens when people think it's a good idea to go out onto a cape with 42 foot swells and 100 mile per hour winds?

Usually nothing...still not a great idea.

This shot was from Friday...just a little outta control. Checked it today...solid 10 foot peaks coming in on the central coast...no one out, just perfect empty surf.

I'm out til Friday...hopeful for surf, but not too confident that the conditions will come together over the next 3 days...

Local report:

...fun time on the north coast today. Woke up early, quick check yielded offshore winds and clean fun surf. Grabbed the big stick, 'cause I didnt think it was all that big and fast. After about 30 minutes of not being able to build enough speed to make the sections, jumped out of the water, grabbed the 7' Lopez, and headed back out. Waves were really fun. Swell started rising as the day went on. By 2 o'clock everything went to crap, ...really disorganized. Had a fly by from the CG, wondering if the 2 guys at a spot a little farther out had gone MIA as I didnt see them come in. Looks like a storm is brewing out there again, glad I got in today as I'm not sure when it will be ridable again.