Turn On It, Tune Out, Drop In

S WIND RISING TO 30 TO 35 KT WITH GUSTS TO 45 KT.
COMBINED SEAS 15 FT DOMINANT PERIOD 13 SECONDS.

Looking to the horizon...
It shows itself briefly...
But you know it is coming...
Anticipation and position...
You move to your spot...
And wait for the moment...
Rearing up within reach...
You make your final adjustment...
Moving out or moving in...
As the wave itself requires...
Then as the swell lifts you...
And your board inclines...
Pointed to the trough...
And rising up the face...
You push up and away...
Lifting yourself to your feet...
As the board falls away...
Finding it with muscle memory...
In unplanned reflex and reaction...
You drop in and streak...