Saturday, January 20, 2007

Not There


NW WIND 20 TO 25 KT...BECOMING W 10 TO 15 KT.
WIND WAVES 5 FT...SUBSIDING TO 2 FT.
W SWELL 10 FT AT 13 SECONDS.
I am outta town...
See ya Tuesday.
I can relate to the report below...Twang!
Local (Gettin' Old) Report:

The waves looked fair this morning and it looked like it was going to get ugly soon, so I decided to go out for a little while. This would be my eighth day in a row and I was starting to feel a little run down. On Wednesday, I felt a very minor twinge in my left (back leg) groin muscle as I kicked out of a wave. It was no big problem, so I kept surfing. There was one other guy out as I suited up. I decided to take my 8-0 Bates Seven out for a change since the 7-4 is beat up and needed to dry out before I could do ding repair. I walked down the beach and the other dude, a regular from LC, decided to quit. I waded out into the rip and paddled out, trying to locate the rocks since it was nearing high tide. The rip was pulling me out quickly and I couldn't see the rocks, so I paddled S to make sure I avoided them. As I was about even with the rocks, a set came and I pushed the nose of the 8-0 under the first wave. It started to push me back, so I strained to keep on top of the board as I envisioned the barnacles on the rocks and the damage they would do if I got flipped over on my back and landed on them. Then I felt a little snap as the groin muscle pulled. Crap! I turned and belly rode the next wave in since I couldn't even pop up on the leg. End of session. No waves. Session doesn't even count.

~holddown

1 comments:

Dub Resurrected said...

Got out for my weekly surf on Sun. Went over early despite my late bed time to catch the low and morning easterly influence in the winds as they were predicted to switch to straight south by mid morning. Not really a factor at the planned local given the swell size and didn't bother checking anything else. CRB was reading 7.5 @ 11 on the way out. Pulled into ultra glassy med sized peaks 5-7 ft. Caught a few inside lefts and then paddled my way up the beach and found some pretty nice rights. Missed what looked like the wave of the day, a right that sucked up a bit a reeled quickly into the inside. Shoulda gone, I thought as I watched the back of it. Felt great to be in the water on a new quad and shake the morning grogginess. Starting to feel like were past the storm after storm pattern and the next few months should provide some fun waves if the conditions and sand cooperates.