Wednesday, February 07, 2007


SE WIND 15 TO 20 KT.

Those who surfed before us were (in many cases) leashless, colder, and far less-rockered than we are today. Striving to experience a state of "surf past" is a journey embarked upon by many, to some degree or another, in a search to discover, experience or be that which our surfing forefathers were. Yet, the very improvements in technology we can now take for granted were enacted by those who came before in an effort to better their own lot.
So why the need to return to the roots? Why not rely upon the leash? Why not utilize space age ultra light compounds in our surf craft? Would Miki Dora or Bob Simmons or the Duke admire our efforts to shed the advantages we are offered today or simply regard us as clueless kooks? I would guess the latter. I think we long for the old ways, seeing them as somehow superior, because we didn't suffer the chilblains, the surf bumps or the long swims of yesterday...and somehow we now see these trials as enobling; when, in fact, it was just the cold, hard, fucked up reality of surfing in the old days that none of us can even comprehend...and never will.
Because if it gets cold enough, or hollow enough, or big enough...we will layer on the 654, break out the well-rockered gun and strap on a quick release leash in an improved effort to take advantage of that which the pioneers could not. Technology in surfing has not changed radically over the last few years, but even the trivial improvements that have occurred bring us more safety and comfort than the call of nostalgia ever will. Not to mention that a long shitty swim in shivering cold water, after a blown late drop due to equipment shortcomings holds little appeal to me.


Chum said...

were you out at the c*ve yesterday?

Doc said...

I wasn't...

And I'm none too happy about it.

Chum said...

it was pretty fun. saw a very adept logger with a goatee... don't know why I thought it could be you. He had a nice orange resin tinted lb and a nice drop knee turn.