Friday, April 20, 2007

Semi-Nice


NW WIND 10 KT...BECOMING SE 10 TO 15 KT AFTER MIDNIGHT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 9 FT AT 12 SECONDS.
Lotsa looking at lumpy disheveled waves out there today...there were a few takers out battling huge closeouts, duck diving mackers and getting sucked sideshore and out in seconds...
Checked a handful of spots...the most impressive a down cliff gaze at corduroy lines exploding onto ragged cobbles...almost tempting until the north that swings wide and obliterates any previously organized lineup...
Settled in late afternoon in a north coast cove and watched a group snag some DOH rights sweeping into the headland...late drops, hard off the bottom and hang on for dear life...setting up in the eddy, they'd wait for the boneyard explosion to reform on the outer bar and hope the ocean didn't have a different idea...
The ocean did...and watching them all cleaned up and struggling futilely to make it over the top of an outside set...they all came in at once...game over...they scored a few points, but the sea wins again.
Local Report:
Lot o' swell never cleaned up like it should have......still a beautiful day with an arduous paddle against a relentless rip of gargantuan proportions.
~gaz

0 comments: