UPDATED FORECAST 4-11
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Last day of high pressure in control and then winter returns for the
weekend. Storm system will drop down Friday bringing rain and wind, first
for far ...
4 days ago
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Wednesday, April 11, 2007
E WIND 5 TO 10 KT...RISING TO 10 TO 15 KT IN THE MORNING...THEN...BACKING TO N IN THE AFTERNOON. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 9 FT AT 13 SECONDS.
...there today.
Usually it's "Shoulda Been Here Yesterday"...and I was...
It was onshore and a mess...
Now it's offshore and looks much better...
Can't win 'em all...
On the positive side...
I sat on an empty beach...
In an armchair of massive fallen rocks...
Under a sunny cloudless sky...
Sipping cold beer...
And reading Paul Dresman poems...
About surf, Oregon and much more...
When I was done...
I filled a bag of trash...
With bits of plastic & foam...
And wrappers of surf wax...
That should never have been left behind...
By surfers who should know better...
Local Report:
I got in the water last night South of Gleneden and North of Otter at a spot I've always watched but it's pretty intimidating. View from the water was way better. Got in with a guy who has had years surfing that area. Got 5 waves, and an amazing right drop I still have goosebumps over. Was fun getting over a mental barrer at a spot that for me is pretty spooky and had an amazing time. I still won't jump in the water there without some one that knows it. But still stoked.
~brisco
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1 comments:
What a day Doc.
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