Sunday, June 17, 2007

F-Day Surf


N WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 5 FT AT 8 SECONDS.

Got on it fairly early...not as early as this pic...but early.
Settled on Rancho Kookamonga after checking a few spots...all not working.
Watched the choppy, disorganized slop for a bit...then I paddled out.
To a semi-working peak that was neglected by shortboarders and softtops...
Initially, it was horrific...in the sense that there were no waves to speak of...
But, sitting inside of a shortboarder who cursed every wave he couldn't catch...(all of them)...
I picked off some waist-high mushballs that occassionally connected to the inside...
The inside section was almost fun for about an hour...when it would hit the inner bar...
And jack...as only a waist-high wave can...and peel into the shallows...
It was funner'n I expected.

2 comments:

Foulweather... said...

It got good Father's Day evening. Only about six people out between 5 and 9pm. It doesn't always pay to be on it early.

Oh man it was fun... glasssssy walls, one after the other,

Fish said...

That pic reminds me of pulling in to Netarts and looking up at the light on top of the post office in the fog on the outskirts of the Mook.