Wednesday, August 15, 2007

Land of the Sea

W WIND 5 TO 10 KT. WIND WAVES 1 FOOT. NW SWELL 3 FT AT 8 SECONDS.

Surfed some fun waist high waves yesterday with friends...traded waves in rare all day glass...rights and lefts...fun peaks coming from seemingly different angles...occasional chest high ones surprising you...fast little lefts and walling rights that were a little more solid...leashless goodness that held up all through high tide.

Also, glided into the shallows right over the top of a big sea bass or grouper...I didn't react quickly enough and failed to leap from my board immediately and grapple with this denizen of the deep...or of the shallows in this instance.

I lost my rash guard at the Kiwanda contest and neglected to replace it, so after a couple hours I was starting to suffer some unpleasant chafing...just as I was contemplating heading in a familiar maroon van pulled up next to our cars and I ended up logging a couple more hours...the later discomfort and pain was well worth the fun...sometimes you pay to play...but no more!

4 comments:

Mitch Effing Buchanan said...

Thanks for staying out. Always a pleasure to ride with you.

Mitch

Doc said...

Well...

I felt safe...

nmm said...

Many thanks to my personal board caddy....still smiling.

Dub said...

Haven't surfed in weeks but sounds fun. Good to know there's been ridables despite the micro #'s. Guess I should just head over one of these days? Still vibing off a solo sesh on the c-coast almost 3 weeks ago. 4-5 at 10, glassy, HH crunchy bechbreak. Garden is green and producing though, gutters are clean, and done a bunch of other stuff I wont have to deal with this fall. Need a surf here soon.