7 years ago
Thursday, September 27, 2007
NW WIND 15 TO 20 KT WITH GUSTS TO 25 KT. WIND WAVES 4 FT. NW SWELL 5 FT AT 9 SECONDS.
Today was a day of aches, pains, and near misses...
Some results of surfing a heavy Skip Frye 10' 6" surfboard all month have been:
- Sore right shoulder (need to hang on with left arm too)...
- Sore hip (from awkward leashless board lunge save)...
- Deep thigh bruise (from rail in shorebreak wipeout)...
- Aching neck and shoulder (turn, paddle, ride...repeat to the x power)...
- Sore lower back (from Kiwi's loose board nearly killing me)...
- Cheek muscles spent (from smiling too much)...
Some chest high waves that were lined up and going both ways...several ended in a knee deep shorepound...which if you weren't paying attention meant you ate sand...as one wave detonated on the beach I tried to escape but managed to fall off on the beach side and the board crushed into my thigh...I surfed for a couple hours after but am seriously limping now...this was after my friend's board got away from him and beelined for my head...I was torn...protect my body?...or protect the Frye...I ducked and covered...the board went directly over my head...hit me in the back and completely missed my board...whew!
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2 comments:
Thank god the Frye is safe!The Kiwi is a menace to another well behaved segment of society............... sheep.
Doc:
I've got to introduce you to the death ten. Sylas is hooked.
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