Saturday, September 15, 2007

Kraken


W WIND 5 KT. WIND WAVES 1 FOOT. W SWELL 4 FT AT 10 SECONDS.
Not that kind of Kraken...
But yesterday the surf was Crackin'...
Head high surf coming over with some punch...
There were waves all over...
And people out at my usual solo spots...
A spot south of Siletz...
That breaks off a steep beach...
Was supposedly offering up barrels...
A place in town was A-frames up and down the beach...
A small hamlet wave was peeling into the channel...
A long, righthander was soft but working...
Punchy beachbreak at another spot...
Final northward exploration found the spot...
Big, outside peaks that would crest...
Then reel left on the inside bar...
Sometimes offering steep walling howlers...
Other times collapsing as a whole...
There were enough rewards to offset the punishments...
Then headed back to the beach break spot...
And surfed some waist high warblers at high tide...
Negotiating curious backwash configurations...
And surfed until I was noodled.

1 comments:

Dub said...

Made it over late on Fri and found smallness in the hamps. Low on time opted for a spooky solo sesh just north at a wedgey looking peak that's caught my eye recently but was more or less a grovel. Found amazing goodness though on Sat with the 4 at 13 and ridiculously buttery conditions. No go south of the Siletz but 2 spots in town were offering up tasty rights with the northerly swell direction, one had a contest being held at it, which kept the other very uncrowned. A 3rd spot was offering slower LB lefts. All and all a very good day, 2 solid surfs, and noodled as well. Stoked!