Wednesday, October 17, 2007

Screamers & Dreamers


SW WIND 20 KT. FREQUENT GUSTS TO 25 KT AROUND SHOWERS. WIND WAVES 4 FT...SUBSIDING TO 2 FT IN THE AFTERNOON. W SWELL 12 FT AT 12 SECONDS... BUILDING TO 16 FT AT 13 SECONDS IN THE AFTERNOON.
Sometimes after a few good days of waves I dream about surfing...actual surfing...paddling for and even catching waves. The dreams aren't typically about catching and riding perfect waves or tubes, but at least I'm in the water.
Usually my surf dreams are about inability to even get in the water...it's getting dark, someone or something gets in the way. Those dreams can be pretty frustrating since the waves are generally perfect.
Last night was a good one...glassy, good sized surf, no wetsuit, warm water (I presume)...I paddled around a driftwood tree as big as a whale, I grabbed a branch and pushed it effortlessly out of the way so that I could paddle past it to a perfect point wave in the distance.

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