Monday, October 15, 2007

Skipping





S WIND 15 TO 20 KT WITH GUSTS TO 25 KT...THEN SHIFTING TO W 10 TO 15 KT IN THE AFTERNOON. WIND WAVES 5 FT...SUBSIDING TO 1 FOOT IN THE AFTERNOON. W SWELL 6 FT AT 11 SECONDS.


Pretty sure this is a frame grab of Skip Frye from some vid, surfing an Eagle I'd guess. Pretty fun weekend. Got in the water late on Friday, with head high lefts going pretty much top to bottom so I went pointy and left the Eagle in the car. The current was a river, pulling you north hard and requiring a constant paddle to stay in position. Kind of tough to find a workable shoulder, I'd say I got 2 waves and lots of beatings that night. The spot has a name, but that night I renamed it "Death Threats" since every wave was making one. Saturday morning wasn't looking much better, so I took care of the family obligations with a nice walk...here's the view:

Headed back down for a look in the afternoon and as I watched the closed out waves thump on the bar listened to tales of "You really missed it", "It was all time 2 hours ago", a missed voice mail of "You're a big fat pussy for not surfing right now" and of Gerry Lopez killing it on his SUP...there were still a few fun ones coming through in the cove so I bolted on the flex fin and gave it a go. Not all time, but I didn't miss it and the inside closeouts I took on the head were definitely not for the faint of heart...or pussies.


Sunday was dawn patrol day...up before light and suited up and in the water with 2 others surfing fun head high peaks on the 10' 6". More good waves in that short 2 hour morning session than I had had in the 2 days previous. Peaks were defined and getting in early allowed a couple back door entries into fun lefts. I took a monster set on the head scrambling to get back out at one point. Needless to say, duckdiving the Eagle is not an option and I rarely turn turtle...it's all about paddling as fast as you can back out and picking that path of least resistance. I had my line and thought I was through when the lip threw and detonated square on my shoulder blades. I experienced what I can only describe as a double concussion...it impacted, released and then exploded again...I felt like I was in a time warp. No pain, mild concern for the board, and I fould myself past the wave none the worse for wear. My final wave was a left into the shallows and I headed in. Mr. Lopez walked past and checked out Skip's handiwork approvingly, he watched the waves for a bit seemingly doubtful about a go out...until a deep south peak unloaded and reeled right and left at which he said "That's it!", spun on his heel and went to get his board. Here's a shot of Gerry killing it...obviously not Surf in Oregon:


A pretty satisfying trip overall...saw some friends, made some new ones, talked with a legend, played on the beach with my family on a sunny October weekend...and surfed, surfed, surfed. As I packed up the car, the wind puffed, and then started to blow hard out of the south...I watched as the glassy waves of the past 3 days grew lumpy and gray, and a massive front enveloped Cascade Head to the south.

3 comments:

Dub said...

4 days of overhead fall lovin! Hope everyone got thier turns in cause it looks like old man winters out the back.

Anonymous said...

Where is that overhead bay photo? It looks too sunny to be Oregon. :P

Doc said...

It is Oregon...we have sun...just no surf