Wednesday, October 10, 2007

Storm 1


SW WIND 15 TO 20 KT. WIND WAVES 4 FT. SW SWELL 17 FT...BECOMING W 15 FT AT 12 SECONDS.

The "so-called" first storm of the season didn't produce the greatest surf but I'm hoping the residual swell once it passes fully will be workable...here's Stormsurf's description:
This system was actually quite surprising in that it actually developed as expected by the models days earlier, and that it built stronger than originally modeled and with much more fetch in it's southwest quadrant aimed at the California coast, pushing 60 kts confirmed. This makes it a certified storm and the first one of the season. But it was moving north awfully fast limiting it's fetches ability to get traction on the oceans surface, which inturn will result in less than possible seas heights. Also it's close proximity to the coast (600 nmiles max) is problematic, not allowing the swell adequate room to unwrap. The result to be a jumbled and raw swell, with 9-14 sec period swell energy all intermixed and coming from a wide angle. Far from an ideal setup with the front from it pushing over land at the same time the swell arrives. Still, it's better than nothing, but not enough to warrant a significant class swell rating mostly due to the anticipated 13 sec period.

Don't know if you saw the pic in the paper of the novice surfer heading out yesterday near the Devil's Punchbowl...hmmm...let's see:
  • novice/inexperienced
  • rental softtop surfboard
  • out of shape
  • cove/currents
  • 20 foot+ forecast

Sounds like all the elements in place for another tragic drowning on the Oregon coast...

3 comments:

Foulweather... said...

A few years back I was storm watching at Devil's Punchbowl/ Otter Rock on a 15'+ day and watched some rental boards take a couple of adventurous young lads out to sea. I was about to call the coast guard as they got sucked out beyond the point and started drifting rapidly south but then they caught a giant foam ball in, hanging on to those foamies for dear life on the ultimate belly ride. When they got to the shore, I was exremely relieved but then the buggers went out in the rip and did it all again... and again... maybe it was sooloo and his mates having a lark?

nm said...

I saw the pic this morning. All I could do was shake my head....

Dub said...

Shouda been a pic of the heads towing earler in the week.